I reused them once but bought a set to replace them the 2nd time.
The caliper ones are lower torque compared to the bracket bolts so you can probably get away with using them longer but I wouldn't risk it too much with brake hardware.
My Stratosphere is a deep blue in the dark and purplish in the light. If you choose the shade you like better you can pick it without the color change. I actually don't like it purplish but love it blue.
Agreed, get what makes you happy. We're not all looking for the same thing.
I considered an Emira as well but from a performance standpoint the Supra at almost half the price is a much better value proposition. The Emira was getting close in price to C8 Z06 territory, which is in another...
I use the MAD intake (cause it's cheap) with an AEM Dryflow filter (cause I don't like oiled filters). The filter I got was AEM 21-205DK which fits easily in the box with no modification needed.
Performance hasn't increased at all and the IATs were a lot worse than stock. I put the Verus heat...
I had the same issue with my mats. I ended up using these rubber adhesive pads over it which no longer catches and has held up for a while. Agreed that this design is awful for manual cars as it's only an issue with the clutch, especially given how long the throw is on our cars...
I used to race formula Mazda and tracked my Evo/240sx when I was younger but lived in NYC and didn't own a car for 12 years. During that time I relied on sim racing and karting (125cc rotax) to keep my skills up and after getting back into tracking again last year I can confidently say that the...
The Supra is great out of the box to track, the only thing I would advise is changing the brake fluid to something higher temp (SRF, Endless rf650 or Torque rt700).
If you're not used to dealing with oversteer the Supra on stock tires can be a handful but you can leave traction control to one...
I had the same issue with a defective power bleeder. As above pressurizing the system (with no fluid in the container) and letting it sit for 10-15 minutes to ensure there isn't any pressure drop off is a great way to check without wasting fluid.
I run these settings:
Camber: -2.8 front, -2.4 rear
Toe: 0 Front, .30 degrees toe in total rear (.15 each side)
Caster: usually around 8 degrees but mine is closer to 9.
Hmm, with your caster bushings you should be able to even out the 1 degree difference. The spec otherwise looks good other than getting more rear camber (around -2.5 degrees rear with -3 front which is doable with stock arms). Rear toe is a bit aggressive (but in spec for a track setup) and will...
Oddly the shipping/specified weight was nearly identical. Unless you're actively competing the cheap rotors seem to be the way to go for general tracking. After beating on them on track there isn't any noticeable difference in terms of performance or heat tolerance vs oem.
FYI Falken just released a new RT660+ tire that's supposed to be the same performance with greater heat tolerance. It's still too early to see how well they actually hold up but I use RT660s currently and am pretty happy with how they perform especially since they're a bit better in the wet than...
Had the same thing happen to me at turn 1 at Thunderhill as I typically leave it at 1 click until the tires warm up. Felt awful in the car as I was trying to correct but on the video it didn't look that bad. I think the loss of control is jarring and makes it feel like the car is fighting you...
You unfortunately can't match the existing arm lenth without the toe being off as the eccentric lock out moves the inner bolt location. Try your best to measure from the center of each bolt before the install and match the length but you're gonna definitely need an alignment.
Also make sure to...