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ehhhhh i guess you're actually right that camber gain doesn't change meaningfully.... but then doesn't it make sense to lean on static camber + caster + bars + damping first, and only then nudging spring rate. Stiff springs are a blunt tool for a geometry problem.... use them only if the data...

This would be fair if we were talking about a stock suspension Supra ....that front strut setup does go positive after ~30 mm of bump. But I’m not on stock geometry anymore. Between LCAs, caster rods, bump steer tie rods, and full rear links, my car’s roll center and camber gain are...

Yes "low" ride frequency only works if the geometry can keep the tire upright through travel. But the Supra’s camber curve actually isn’t terrible. We're talking 0.6–0.7 degrees per inch of compression up front, and close to 0.5 degrees at the rear. Yeah it's not double wishbone levels, but...

Straight pipe. Mother of all wings. Trailered. "Street car". Lol maybe the thread title needs a bit of tweaking now?

Delete this mindset. So many people keep pushing back their entry into this wonderful space because of....just 1 more mod bro. You don't need to build anything. Pads, fluid, and make sure the car is in good working order. You shouldn't be pushing 10/10ths to start with anyway. Get some seat...

Oops. But yeah, nice is an understatement.

Slightly off track comment....these are the conversations that keep me coming back here. So, thanks for that. Def agree that MCS makes an excellent damper. Imagine thinking otherwise. I haven't said that your setup isn't soft. What i'm saying is that it's not exclusively your spring rates...

You can't look at spring rates without factoring in damper architecture... Also, you can move these numbers around a bit, but roughly speaking, this is the math i'm using: 1 Hz = soft GT car / comfy road car 1.5–1.8 Hz = sporty street / fast road 1.8–2.2 Hz = track-day / semi-slick sweet spot...

Stating what you already know but there's a lot more to how stiffly sprung it feels than just the spring rate. OEM is 188/343. The Ohlins i'm currently running are 400/685. I'm now going slightly softer in the front and slightly stiffer in the rear. That's going to give me better rotation...

Will def share my detailed thoughts when i get them on. Will say this though right off the bat....i think there's very little difference between the brands at the top. Nitron, JRZ, Moton, MCS etc...for the average pleb like us. I'd personally choose with vendor preference in mind and skewing...

60nm front and 140nm rear. 343/800 I also have an Alcon BBK on order btw, but they've just reached out to me and recommended a larger rotor for better thermal capacity. So we're looking at a 378mm rotor vs the 355 one in the kit i was looking at. If anyone reading this knows if that would...

Sorry for the double post, but couldn't upload these slow mo vids. Had to compress them

Thanks man, appreciate it On that note... Moving away from the Ohlins that've served me well so far. Big fan of those coilovers, especially paired with the SS camber plates. They're just a great dual purpose setup. But, it's time to go up a step. So i have Nitron 3 way coilovers on the way...

Possibly. We still need to test it out, and under a bit of stress. So it's going on the dyno later today Did get the new meth tank on. Out goes the 3 liter underhood tank and in goes the 9.5 liter trunk mounted tank

1st race of the other time attack series is coming up this Sunday. This one has the open pit lane format, which I like a whole lot more. Yeah I think I'll log a couple of short pulls on the street this Saturday

Looks like we're going to be able to repair it Also I wouldn't worry tbh. Even if it was a manufacturer defect, it's almost certainly a fluke

Here are my non manufacturer defect theory... Meth cut out, EGTs spiked instantly....then if I lift off throttle or the ECU cuts fuel/timing that creates a massive thermal contraction. So rapid heat cycling like that can warp the wastegate seat or the flapper disk. Or maybe meth failed...

So i took the car to my tuner to get some dyno logs done (plus an additional map i requested) and to make sure it wasn't a tuning issue that wasn't (at least partially) causing the issues i was facing. Keep in mind i didn't have time to drive the car at all post turbo/tune. Pretty much straight...

Some more nice shots from race day