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Make sure the stock screen protector was removed. Very often, when BMW owners complain about scratches it's because the factory screen protector was never removed. It scratches easy but the actual screen surface should not. If a dealer didn't peel the protector off during prep, it might...

That was debunked in mid 2019 after the car launched. There are a couple fake vents up front that could be made barely functional with a lot of work and gutting of some components, but all the others have no chance. The hood vents have structure underneath and are over the top of the strut...

The problem originates from the A-pillar independent of other features on the car. The vents don't have an opening under them, it's all metal underneath. They are purely cosmetic.

Nah, it won't really cause damage and is not something to call a tow for. I have had this happen dozens of times over the years and they always work themselves out. This is a very common thing and you should be prepared for it to happen again.

They generally won't do damage and often will work themselves out. Most times it happens to me, it works out on its own within minutes.

Very common problem on sports cars with big rotors. Not something to freak out about or call a tow. Happens to me 1-2 times a year at least, on a variety of cars.

Don't expect much from electric power steering. You can improve feel but it is not really capable of providing feedback like a hydraulic system could.

The S2K manual was one of the best ever, and the M2C isn't quite in that league. However, it's pretty good (some BMW manuals have been lousy, but the one in the M2C is pretty good). I enjoy it. Took me a while to get used to the rev-matched downshifts though.

The Supra is more comfortable in terms of ride, but smaller and more cramped on the inside. The M2C has a sedan feel versus low sports car in the Supra, so sitting inside each car is very different. That could potentially sway someone one way or another when it comes to a daily driver. I...

I didn't watch the whole video, but the M2C (I own one) gets it's power dialed back in lower gears (otherwise it would be severely limited by traction, more than it already is) so any advantage of the S55 engine over the B58/ZF8 comes in higher gears at higher speeds. In lower speed corners I...

BTW, I have no gripe against the LE -- it's a nice trim package -- but I think that the buyers and sellers who bought into the hype and supported price premiums really made a mess of things. The sellers were greedy and many buyers got ripped off for no actual benefit.

The fact that the LE # doesn't correlate to build order or VIN order says it all. Toyota USA randomly assigned the dashboard stickers to these cars, so the sticker itself is really cosmetic -- may as not even have a number on it. The LE is a limited trim package, that's all.

The ZF8 is impressively good and doesn't have any of the low speed quirks of a DCT. How good is subjective, though, and there is a range of performance/behavior with DCTs across brands and models so there might not be a general answer. I'd say compared to BMW DCTs in the M cars, the ZF8 is...

Some of the most negative comments come from Toyota loyalists, which cracks me up because other than the entry-level 86, Toyota USA has been playing the lame game with sports cars for many years. Me, I see the Supra as a discounted BMW sports cars and BMW has a proven and respected history in...

I feel like it's much easier mounting wheels on hubs with bolts versus studs. Just slap the wheel on, hang it on the centering lip, spin to align with holes, and thread a bolt in. When there are studs, you need to get all of them lined up with the holes in the wheel before the wheel even...

I have seen it happen on BMWs when people reuse the stock rivets for flaps and body kits. These flaps may be thin enough but beware if using flaps thicker than ~ 2mm. You'll know it's a problem if you can't easily push the pins in.

The problem with those rivets is that they can crack the paint around the fender holes when you add another layer of thickness (splash guards) to be clamped down, since they flare out aggressively. These are meant for a very specific thickness range (stock setup) and for the normal range, the...

Geez, those videos are painful to watch -- I have a pneumatic rivet tool, but you can buy a hand operated tool for $10-15. Sometimes I don't get those shortcut videos on youtube.

I don't think those are easy to "reverse" so I might be wary of using that type. I'd want to make sure I could easily remove the rivets and mud flaps if desired.

OK, here is the BMW rivet shown on the left and Toyota 90467-05090-B1 on the right. The BMW rivet starts flaring out as soon as you push the pin in a bit, and really only can grip a couple mm of materials before the flare. The Toyota rivet flares out only after the pin is pushed all the way in...