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We use the same distance and angle here in Europe, specifically in Germany. But our measurement method is a bit different: The driver has to slowly rev the engine up to 3750 rpm, then release the accelerator. Only the rev drop is measured. Each side is measured 3 times. The difference between...

I only checked for the rear fusebox. The ones that always have voltage, even with the car locked are the following: F217, F221-F230, F242-F246 Not every slot has a fuse in it. It will depend on the options.

Try the Ragazzon GPF delete. Out of every available GPF delete, it has the best flow! Part #: 55.0721.00 Its plug and play for EU spec cars with the V clamp on the downpipe. No welding required.

Do you have a pic how the trunk looks like with the sub?

Yes, after some time, it will shut off just like the screen.

F215 should work fine. You can also use F273. (Fuse of the 12V socket) It will shut down a few minutes after locking the car. Same with F215. I checked the voltage at all fuses a while back in different states: unlocked, ignition on, and locked. I might share the results in a new thread.

You can use any other LOC that is able to handle up to 40V input voltage. Or just get a Kicker Amp like the CXA800.1 No need for a LOC because it can handle 40V input voltage. Just make sure to flip the switch correctly. This will be the much simpler solution.

If you disable ASD, the sound system does sound slightly better!

What about using AAIdrive if you have an Android phone? It should show you nearly all the temps in the main screen. Or you can use Bimmerlink with an iPhone and Carplay to see every value you wish on your main screen. (have to connect to OBD)

Was just taking a stab at your highways with limited speeds.;) Worded it differently now. You got it haha

As a professional German Autobahn driver that has access to the lovely unlimited Autobahn, I can safely assure you that driving VMAX or about 260kmh/ 160mph feels safe. No floaty front end or anything. My car is stock.

They are actually. And it annoyed me when they weren't after swapping to the Match setup. It was a 2018 F31. Directional was the word I was missing! Sorry for that haha

I had a Match Up10 with Helix SDMI25 in my 3 series. The SDMI25 does convert surround into stereo. This will lead to the parking sensors not coming from the front left if something is close to the front left or the rear right. With the stock amp you can locate where the object is close to the...

Theoretically there would be some losses but if they are noticeable is the other question. It does have a big advantage. The parking sensors will still work and sound like stock and be surround instead of stereo. SDMI25 is Stereo only. I would try it if they sold the set without the speakers...

Check my link I posted above. No need for the SDMI25. Match 8 will work with the correct harness.

Unfortunately this doesn't fit the JBL system.

Replacing the amp with any DSP will have the biggest impact. Even with stock speakers. In my old BMW with Harman Kardon I was able to improve sound immensely with the Match UP10 DSP. Door speakers are generally fine. They will handle a lot of abuse and you can do a lot with of tuning on them to...

My Supra has been charging with a CTEK MXS 5.0 for a few days. I will unplug it tomorrow. I could quickly check the charging level in Bimmerlink if you'd like.

Go with the SDMI25 and go full digital. Everything else is a waste. The DSP will open up so many options! FYI: The SDMI25 only outputs stereo. Your parking sensor sound won't be able to come from the front left, rear right corner, and so on anymore. They will just be left and right.

When pressing the start button 3 times to enter diagnostics mode, the front DRL will light up and if the light sensor senses it's dark, then the low beams and tail lights are on. Did you check if there is any additional cable going towards the fog light?