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I’m 99% certain it’s 41 ft/lb. Keep in mind, the front are going into aluminum so I wouldn’t wrench down on those too much. As stated previously, I just get them feeling tight enough and have never had a problem.

I’d buy a new piece and try again. They’re not expensive.

Damn damn. I believe there are a few threads on here about pulling apart the dash. From those who drag race and such. Maybe reading over one of those will give you an idea for how to attack it. Personal opinion, save the airbag for a last resort. I don’t trust those things.

I would say the fucker who put it there. Make him remove it.

When was the last time we had a new member that wasn’t either over 60 and had owned a Corvette, or under 30 and living off their parents?

On a 2.0… Jesus Christ. The money wasted on that fucking thing could’ve been put towards a 3.0

Can’t say I know what clips you’re referring to but here are all the parts in that area.

Nah, just a new battery.

My 5’ 6” 43 year old wife complains every time she gets in/out so don’t take that into account too much.

That bodes well for me. I do squat exercises everyday. ?

@Sara/AWE

Bet she leaves her grocery cart in the empty spot next to her.

A Tesla has start/stop?

He’s referring to the software being updated that causes this coding to no longer work. Or, at least, that’s what I would be referring to.

Correct, recommendation is to use the front, however people have hooked up directly to the battery without any issues. If you’re going to I would say to use one of the tie down bolts for the ground rather than the negative on the battery itself. No idea if it actually makes a difference but it...

Keep in mind power is needed for the window to drop/raise when opening and closing the doors. I really don’t know what happens if it were not be able to move. If you keep the hood unlatched then it’s not something to worry about. Probably best, if possible, would be to put a rag over the latch...

And so it begins…