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Engine Compartment Strut Brace Torque Specs?

gmarcucio

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Does anyone happen to know the torque spec for the OEM aluminum engine compartment strut braces? I removed mine to paint them and would much rather torque them to the proper spec rather than just tighten them down.
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STV3

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I've tightened mine down to "that feels about right" at least 10 times and my car hasn't exploded yet ?‍♂
 

DC5UPRA

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35 ft/lb is what I’ve used. Don’t ask me where I got it from.
 
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gmarcucio

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Thanks for your replies, doing more research I guess the 2020 model year didn't even have them. They started using the brace in 2021 model year. So, I would guess the torque spec isn't that critical.
 

Eastwood

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Does anyone happen to know the torque spec for the OEM aluminum engine compartment strut braces? I removed mine to paint them and would much rather torque them to the proper spec rather than just tighten them down.
Gudentite
 

J29DB03

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I’m 99% certain it’s 41 ft/lb. Keep in mind, the front are going into aluminum so I wouldn’t wrench down on those too much. As stated previously, I just get them feeling tight enough and have never had a problem.
 

itzTang

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They don’t do anything just give it a ooga ooga
 

Tsuki8

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Its, 56 Nm or 41 ft/lb for chassis mounted bolts in those areas.
The shocks and nearby bolts are 56 Nm or 41 ft/lb.
Here's some context clues:
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lucky phil

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Thanks for your replies, doing more research I guess the 2020 model year didn't even have them. They started using the brace in 2021 model year. So, I would guess the torque spec isn't that critical.
In all but specialised cases bolt torque specs are standardised and reflected by the bolt diameter and material. This information is readily available on the web. So if you don't have a specific torque value for a particular bolt then you can just measure the shank dia of the bolt and check the head of the bolt for markings that indicate it's material grade (ie strength, for simplicity) and cross reference the chart for the torque value. So 10mm bolt in grade 8.8 dia will be XX to XY torque. If the grade isn't on the bolt head then you can make some assumptions based on the fasteners function. For your strut bolts which I have also replaced I didn't bother with a torque wrench because they are not critical bolts and it's easily checked if you are concerned. If I recall correctly the bolts are 10mm dia and at a guess would be grade 8.8 so torque would be 55NM as an example. If it was a 10.9 bolt @ 10mm dia it would be 75NM. You get the idea.
 
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gmarcucio

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In all but specialised cases bolt torque specs are standardised and reflected by the bolt diameter and material. This information is readily available on the web. So if you don't have a specific torque value for a particular bolt then you can just measure the shank dia of the bolt and check the head of the bolt for markings that indicate it's material grade (ie strength, for simplicity) and cross reference the chart for the torque value. So 10mm bolt in grade 8.8 dia will be XX to XY torque. If the grade isn't on the bolt head then you can make some assumptions based on the fasteners function. For your strut bolts which I have also replaced I didn't bother with a torque wrench because they are not critical bolts and it's easily checked if you are concerned. If I recall correctly the bolts are 10mm dia and at a guess would be grade 8.8 so torque would be 55NM as an example. If it was a 10.9 bolt @ 10mm dia it would be 75NM. You get the idea.
Thanks, Yes, I understand. Good idea. The only time I would worry about falling back on that method is if it's a torque to yield bolt. Where you would torque the bolt to a specified threshold torque and then an additional amount of specified rotation in degrees using a torque angle device. In that case you would have to discard the OEM bolts and replace with new bolts because the OEM bolts would have already been stretched to meet their clamping force. But as you mentioned that would fit into the category of a specialized situation. However, how would you identify a torque to yield bolt? All in all, it really doesn't matter once I read that they were not even used on the 2020 model year I wasn't worried about it anymore. Like it says in the 1935 Ford Model A service manual, "snug em up tight." I actually read somewhere they are upper radiator support braces.
 

lucky phil

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Thanks, Yes, I understand. Good idea. The only time I would worry about falling back on that method is if it's a torque to yield bolt. Where you would torque the bolt to a specified threshold torque and then an additional amount of specified rotation in degrees using a torque angle device. In that case you would have to discard the OEM bolts and replace with new bolts because the OEM bolts would have already been stretched to meet their clamping force. But as you mentioned that would fit into the category of a specialized situation. However, how would you identify a torque to yield bolt? All in all, it really doesn't matter once I read that they were not even used on the 2020 model year I wasn't worried about it anymore. Like it says in the 1935 Ford Model A service manual, "snug em up tight." I actually read somewhere they are upper radiator support braces.
Torque to yield bolts are always in my experience torqued to a base setting then the final torque is to an angle. Not all torque to angle bolts are TTY though such as head bolts but a lot of chassis and general bolts are these days. A torque wrench isn't accurate enough for a TTY style bolt so they TTA. Some chassis fasteners are also "one use only" not because they are TTY but because they come from the manufacturer pre loaded with thread locker. They don't trust a mechanic to apply thread locker.
Phil
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