Or the E brake by the sounds of it. What option will you use for that?Is there a bracket that will allow me to mount the OEM front brake calipers to replace the single piston floating rear calipers? Not a fan of caliper flex from floating calipers.
Front has a BBK so OEM front calipers are spare.
Valid question. Can relocate it similar to the AP Racing rear BBK maybe?Or the E brake by the sounds of it. What option will you use for that?
Phil
So you eliminate the brake calliper flex by adding more sprung weight. I can't imagine the stock rear callipers are that bad on a road car to make it worth the money and effort.Valid question. Can relocate it similar to the AP Racing rear BBK maybe?
Would be an interesting project if a little impractical.
https://www.essexparts.com/news-blo...-rear-brake-kit-with-electronic-parking-brake
This is for a track car, would have some advantages of better heat management, less pad taper, easier pad swaps, better pedal feel, and different pad options. Iâve spent the past five years tracking a car with single piston calipers and it hasnât been ideal.So you eliminate the brake calliper flex by adding more sprung weight. I can't imagine the stock rear callipers are that bad on a road car to make it worth the money and effort.
Phil
Do you need an E brake for a track car? Can't see why you would unless it's a tech requirement.This is for a track car, would have some advantages of better heat management, less pad taper, easier pad swaps, better pedal feel, and different pad options. Iâve spent the past five years tracking a car with single piston calipers and it hasnât been ideal.
I would rather use existing calipers rather than buying a rear big brake kit. Forged wheels are more than enough to offset the mass.
This is for a track car, would have some advantages of better heat management, less pad taper, easier pad swaps, better pedal feel, and different pad options. Iâve spent the past five years tracking a car with single piston calipers and it hasnât been ideal.
I would rather use existing calipers rather than buying a rear big brake kit. Forged wheels are more than enough to offset the mass.
Glad you brought this up. There are so many things we could do to the car for track. Some things make more sense than others - bang for the buckwise.I havenât calculated the piston area and force yet, moreso looking for someone who may have done this already and can advise.
Rough estimate is it shifts the brake bias rearward by about 10% so it would need a significantly lower friction rear compound or brake bias proportioning valve. And then you might have issues with ABS. Pad and rotor cost would go up but no different than an existing BBK system. Would be much easier to swap pads as well. But all in all just not worth it for a likely nearly imperceptible improvement in pedal feel. Seems like the calipers don't have a lot of flex anyhow.Glad you brought this up. There are so many things we could do to the car for track. Some things make more sense than others - bang for the buckwise.
Just curious what youâve noticed or are finding troublesome with the rear brake bias. Assuming you have the 3.0 Premium calipers. I have Hawk DTC 30s on the rear and use new rotors each time with each set of pads. With the nannies turned off, they last way longer than my front pads & rotors. The bite and stability feels great/linear. I havenât noticed uneven pad wear (in the rear). But fixed is definitely better on paper for sure and why we have them on our fronts.
https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/brake-bias-and-performance
https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/bbk/rear-brake-upgrades
You probably know all of this ? stuff and more. Iâd be interested, especially at such a high $5k price point if this can be done w/out altering the brake bias. And how would it affect our ABS system compatibility wise? Lastly, pad & rotor cost would likely go up as well. Have you taken this into consideration? I love learning and curious what youâve found out!
https://www.essexparts.com/ap-racin...on-brake-kit-rear-cp9450365mm-toyota-gr-supra
Sounds like youâre on the right track & appreciate the feedback! What were you driving before?Rough estimate is it shifts the brake bias rearward by about 10% so it would need a significantly lower friction rear compound or brake bias proportioning valve. And then you might have issues with ABS. Pad and rotor cost would go up but no different than an existing BBK system. Would be much easier to swap pads as well. But all in all just not worth it for a likely nearly imperceptible improvement in pedal feel. Seems like the calipers don't have a lot of flex anyhow.
This is all a thought experiment or seeing if a solution already exists that would let me repurpose my spare calipers. I just bought this car and my first trackday in it is coming up and from my understanding the biggest issue with the brakes on this car are from the master cylinder flex anyway for which this car has the brace already. I think the biggest detractor would be adding a significant amount of unsprung mass compared to losing mass with the AP racing kit. When it's time to work on the brakes I'll take measurements and do a more thorough calculation just to see.
Brake bias is dynamic on the Supra so that is not correct.Rough estimate is it shifts the brake bias rearward by about 10% so it would need a significantly lower friction rear compound or brake bias proportioning valve. And then you might have issues with ABS. Pad and rotor cost would go up but no different than an existing BBK system. Would be much easier to swap pads as well. But all in all just not worth it for a likely nearly imperceptible improvement in pedal feel. Seems like the calipers don't have a lot of flex anyhow.
This is all a thought experiment or seeing if a solution already exists that would let me repurpose my spare calipers. I just bought this car and my first trackday in it is coming up and from my understanding the biggest issue with the brakes on this car are from the master cylinder flex anyway for which this car has the brace already. I think the biggest detractor would be adding a significant amount of unsprung mass compared to losing mass with the AP racing kit. When it's time to work on the brakes I'll take measurements and do a more thorough calculation just to see.