Opinion on Track Build

[kaj]

Well from my side, except the tires and pads, I only bought a brake cooling kit (from Speed Engineering), and my reasoning was that it would enable me to have less pads wear and potentially to use cheaper pads. Any thoughts on that?

Cheaper pads will melt down faster, so I guess that could work. It's an odd reason to run a cooling kit but who cares if it works for you? Most people just run a better pad as you get one that works better and handles heat.

I forgot the most important:
With a brake cooling kit, all the fresh air is sent inside the disc, and none to the caliber.
I don't know if it is linked, but I felt like my pedal was very soft after parking, and it is maybe because the caliber is not so well cooled down during my cooling lap. I need to test more to confirm!

How does it get inside the disc? Cooling kits run air to the rotor since that's where you want to drop temp. If the rotor cools, so do the pads and so does the caliper. Soft pedal is usually boiled fluid and/or air in the lines.

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[FLtrackdays]

Cheaper pads will melt down faster, so I guess that could work. It's an odd reason to run a cooling kit but who cares if it works for you? Most people just run a better pad as you get one that works better and handles heat.



How does it get inside the disc? Cooling kits run air to the rotor since that's where you want to drop temp. If the rotor cools, so do the pads and so does the caliper. Soft pedal is usually boiled fluid and/or air in the lines.

Yeah, I haven’t needed it for this car. Yet… Guess I need to go faster ?

 

[PaulFRDE]

Cheaper pads will melt down faster, so I guess that could work. It's an odd reason to run a cooling kit but who cares if it works for you? Most people just run a better pad as you get one that works better and handles heat.



How does it get inside the disc? Cooling kits run air to the rotor since that's where you want to drop temp. If the rotor cools, so do the pads and so does the caliper. Soft pedal is usually boiled fluid and/or air in the lines.

For the first point, my target is to reduce cost in the long term . I actually have sufficient braking performance with sport pads, even without the cooling ducts.

By inside the disc, I mean the cold air is directed at the center of the rotor, not on the braking surfaces.

For the soft pedal coming from boiled liquid, I agree with you of course, but I am still not sure if it is because I should change the liquid, too short cooling time/laps or because the caliber itself does not receive enough air compared to without the air duct. No so easy to explain with words I guess

 

[kaj]

For the first point, my target is to reduce cost in the long term . I actually have sufficient braking performance with sport pads, even without the cooling ducts.

By inside the disc, I mean the cold air is directed at the center of the rotor, not on the braking surfaces.

For the soft pedal coming from boiled liquid, I agree with you of course, but I am still not sure if it is because I should change the liquid, too short cooling time/laps or because the caliber itself does not receive enough air compared to without the air duct. No so easy to explain with words I guess

Gotcha. Reducing costs and doing track days (safely) don't usually go well together ?
If your brakes are fine now and you are just trying to get them to last longer, a cooling kit won't really help unless you are currently glazing rotors or otherwise overheating pads. I could be wrong, though. I've honestly never looked into a brake cooling kit for the sake of trying to get brake pads to last longer.
Yes, kits put air on the hat, so it can be pulled through the rotors vanes. You want to cool the rotor from the inside out.
If your brakes are working, which it sounds like they are, then a soft pedal is always air in the system.

 

[FLtrackdays]

For the first point, my target is to reduce cost in the long term . I actually have sufficient braking performance with sport pads, even without the cooling ducts.

By inside the disc, I mean the cold air is directed at the center of the rotor, not on the braking surfaces.

For the soft pedal coming from boiled liquid, I agree with you of course, but I am still not sure if it is because I should change the liquid, too short cooling time/laps or because the caliber itself does not receive enough air compared to without the air duct. No so easy to explain with words I guess

Assuming steel brake lines and frequent bleeding your DOT4 brake fluid? And like Jason said any air Not costly and solid piece of mind to go with those beautiful ducts of yours.

 

[PaulFRDE]

Assuming steel brake lines and frequent bleeding your DOT4 brake fluid? And like Jason said any air Not costly and solid piece of mind to go with those beautiful ducts of yours.

I have none yet. The car is a late 2022, only summer registered and I improve it step by step. I wasn't so convinced with steel brake lines on my Subaru BRZ, but DOT4 I will change for sure soon.

I think we stole a bit the OP thread now

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