What did you do to your Supra today?

[Vertex]

Yeah I really miss the sound of the 5.0 would love a manual Mach 1 with handling package!!

One other thing that may not be a huge deal to certain people. I also found the tech in the Supra much more up to date than the Mach 1. Regardless of them doing the changes for the 24, everything was just kinda stale as far as interior on the Mach 1. I knew what I was getting, just would’ve been nice to see some updates since many of the other Ford products had been before that model dropped. Lots of super nice features as far as the amount of customization you can do with the cluster and super convenient being able to see tire temps without any aftermarket stuff. Also extremely convenient if you have multiple sets of wheels/tires how the car can self learn the sensors in the Supra. Just honestly really had no complaints about the car when I saw everything inside and out on it and how nimble and quick on its feet it is. Even from a dig the Supra is quicker or certainly feels like it.

 

[Syeeee]

One other thing that may not be a huge deal to certain people. I also found the tech in the Supra much more up to date than the Mach 1. Regardless of them doing the changes for the 24, everything was just kinda stale as far as interior on the Mach 1. I knew what I was getting, just would’ve been nice to see some updates since many of the other Ford products had been before that model dropped. Lots of super nice features as far as the amount of customization you can do with the cluster and super convenient being able to see tire temps without any aftermarket stuff. Also extremely convenient if you have multiple sets of wheels/tires how the car can self learn the sensors in the Supra. Just honestly really had no complaints about the car when I saw everything inside and out on it and how nimble and quick on its feet it is. Even from a dig the Supra is quicker or certainly feels like it.

Now all you need is dp+tune and you'll hang with cars in the 6 digit range $.

 

[Bigboss]

Did you do some drilling for that?

 

[J29DB03]

Did you do some drilling for that?

Jesus man, keep it PG.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I traded the Mach 1 for the Supra.

Supra just seemed better in every aspect except the sound department. The one thing the Mach 1 definitely had over this thing.

Besides the wind buffeting thing, the exhaust was the 2nd thing we did to our car. My wife was adamant about getting a gnarly exhaust sound. She’s owned Mustangs and loves the 5.0 sound. @BMWAF just got his (another thread) and can vouch. Definitely a must have upgrade!

 

[Thraxbert]

4" single exit. Everything from the turbo back is 4". Built by Godzilla Raceworks in Dallas.

 

[Supra Jr.]

One other thing that may not be a huge deal to certain people. I also found the tech in the Supra much more up to date than the Mach 1. Regardless of them doing the changes for the 24, everything was just kinda stale as far as interior on the Mach 1. I knew what I was getting, just would’ve been nice to see some updates since many of the other Ford products had been before that model dropped. Lots of super nice features as far as the amount of customization you can do with the cluster and super convenient being able to see tire temps without any aftermarket stuff. Also extremely convenient if you have multiple sets of wheels/tires how the car can self learn the sensors in the Supra. Just honestly really had no complaints about the car when I saw everything inside and out on it and how nimble and quick on its feet it is. Even from a dig the Supra is quicker or certainly feels like it.

Wait until you just do a basic tune on the supra, it completely changes it and then it really would kill that mustang after that.

 

[ope_sry]

Found these on eBay for a good price. Quality is very nice, fitment was not stellar- specifically how the oem release cable attached, but they functionsgreat and look pretty spicy.

 

[tturboman]

AA catted downpipe and HKS Hi-Power Exhaust

 

[Timmy_Jones]

Cleaned.

 

[Iambatman]

Despite not seeing many people opt for these S emblems, I jumped and did it. I like it. I feel like it ties in the matte black pieces.

 

[Evolution]

Found these on eBay for a good price. Quality is very nice, fitment was not stellar- specifically how the oem release cable attached, but they functionsgreat and look pretty spicy.

Those look like the same ones I am waiting to install from @drivewaylabs. Did the back look like this? If so, any pointers for install?

 

[Kiske]

Added the OLM carbon bits after seeing Adro changed the design before production. Not sure if I'll add the lower accents as it might be too much.

Did you do some drilling for that?

I did not. Your supposed to replace all the push pins with bolt/nuts and drill 1 on eacj end. I reused all the catocy hardware and am just relying on tape for the ends. I will see how it does. If need be, I'll do so when I get her up in the air for the suspension goodies come spring. For now the car goes back to sleep.

 

[ope_sry]

Those look like the same ones I am waiting to install from @drivewaylabs. Did the back look like this? If so, any pointers for install?

Yup, same ones. I just followed this video, different brand but same process.



1. I would use a 1/4” drill bit for removing the plastic rivets, the 10mm one they use in the video is too big and I removed too much material on a couple-allowing the heads of the replacement screws to pull through . Just drill the cores out at 1/4” and use a pick or drift to gently pop out the remainder of the rivet.

2. The door card comes off very easy, only difficulty is attaching the oem release cable to the braided steel loop attached to the pull strap. I did it myself but would suggest doing it with a buddy to help hold the door card up while you fight with it.

3. The screws included with mine were too large in diameter, the first few broke the plastic “receptacles” they thread into- I bored out each screw receptacle with a 1/8” drill bit allowing them to thread in easier and had no more break. (Bought on eBay so it’s possible they weren’t the correct/original screws, they were black #6 modified truss style screws).

4. Biggest issue was the white plastic retainer on the end of the oem release cable. On the oem handle assembly it clips securely into place fastening the cable sheath to the back of the handle assembly so the inner steel cable can slide back and forth. The new door handle assembly had the same pocket for the retainer to clip into, but the design wasn’t right, it was physically impossible to completely seat it in place because it interfered with the rest of the handle assembly….like bad. Something was just way off and it was frustrating. BUT it’s possible this was an earlier design or reject part that shouldn’t have gotten out…I have no idea so I definitely am not bashing anybody for something I bought “new” on eBay with no instructions and also never reaching out for guidance.

Anyways, I got creative, did some grinding and performed enough trickery to get it installed and functioning fine. They look killer, excellent finish quality, overall I’m happy with them for the price I got them for.

 

[Evolution]

Yup, same ones. I just followed this video, different brand but same process.



1. I would use a 1/4” drill bit for removing the plastic rivets, the 10mm one they use in the video is too big and I removed too much material on a couple-allowing the heads of the replacement screws to pull through . Just drill the cores out at 1/4” and use a pick or drift to gently pop out the remainder of the rivet.

2. The door card comes off very easy, only difficulty is attaching the oem release cable to the braided steel loop attached to the pull strap. I did it myself but would suggest doing it with a buddy to help hold the door card up while you fight with it.

3. The screws included with mine were too large in diameter, the first few broke the plastic “receptacles” they thread into- I bored out each screw receptacle with a 1/8” drill bit allowing them to thread in easier and had no more break. (Bought on eBay so it’s possible they weren’t the correct/original screws, they were black #6 modified truss style screws).

4. Biggest issue was the white plastic retainer on the end of the oem release cable. On the oem handle assembly it clips securely into place fastening the cable sheath to the back of the handle assembly so the inner steel cable can slide back and forth. The new door handle assembly had the same pocket for the retainer to clip into, but the design wasn’t right, it was physically impossible to completely seat it in place because it interfered with the rest of the handle assembly….like bad. Something was just way off and it was frustrating. BUT it’s possible this was an earlier design or reject part that shouldn’t have gotten out…I have no idea so I definitely am not bashing anybody for something I bought “new” on eBay with no instructions and also never reaching out for guidance.

Anyways, I got creative, did some grinding and performed enough trickery to get it installed and functioning fine. They look killer, excellent finish quality, overall I’m happy with them for the price I got them for.

Awesome write up! Thank you much. Will double check screw sizes before I begin. I'll let you know how mine ends up fitting. I'll have a helper but when it comes to car stuff, she is best at handing me drinks. Haha.