What did you do to your Supra today?

Kiske

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20231217_135044.jpg

Added the OLM carbon bits after seeing Adro changed the design before production. Not sure if I'll add the lower accents as it might be too much.

Did you do some drilling for that?
I did not. Your supposed to replace all the push pins with bolt/nuts and drill 1 on eacj end. I reused all the catocy hardware and am just relying on tape for the ends. I will see how it does. If need be, I'll do so when I get her up in the air for the suspension goodies come spring. For now the car goes back to sleep.

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ope_sry

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Those look like the same ones I am waiting to install from @drivewaylabs. Did the back look like this? If so, any pointers for install?

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Yup, same ones. I just followed this video, different brand but same process.



1. I would use a 1/4” drill bit for removing the plastic rivets, the 10mm one they use in the video is too big and I removed too much material on a couple-allowing the heads of the replacement screws to pull through . Just drill the cores out at 1/4” and use a pick or drift to gently pop out the remainder of the rivet.

2. The door card comes off very easy, only difficulty is attaching the oem release cable to the braided steel loop attached to the pull strap. I did it myself but would suggest doing it with a buddy to help hold the door card up while you fight with it.

3. The screws included with mine were too large in diameter, the first few broke the plastic “receptacles” they thread into- I bored out each screw receptacle with a 1/8” drill bit allowing them to thread in easier and had no more break. (Bought on eBay so it’s possible they weren’t the correct/original screws, they were black #6 modified truss style screws).

4. Biggest issue was the white plastic retainer on the end of the oem release cable. On the oem handle assembly it clips securely into place fastening the cable sheath to the back of the handle assembly so the inner steel cable can slide back and forth. The new door handle assembly had the same pocket for the retainer to clip into, but the design wasn’t right, it was physically impossible to completely seat it in place because it interfered with the rest of the handle assembly
.like bad. Something was just way off and it was frustrating. BUT it’s possible this was an earlier design or reject part that shouldn’t have gotten out
I have no idea so I definitely am not bashing anybody for something I bought “new” on eBay with no instructions and also never reaching out for guidance.

Anyways, I got creative, did some grinding and performed enough trickery to get it installed and functioning fine. They look killer, excellent finish quality, overall I’m happy with them for the price I got them for.
 

Evolution

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Yup, same ones. I just followed this video, different brand but same process.



1. I would use a 1/4” drill bit for removing the plastic rivets, the 10mm one they use in the video is too big and I removed too much material on a couple-allowing the heads of the replacement screws to pull through . Just drill the cores out at 1/4” and use a pick or drift to gently pop out the remainder of the rivet.

2. The door card comes off very easy, only difficulty is attaching the oem release cable to the braided steel loop attached to the pull strap. I did it myself but would suggest doing it with a buddy to help hold the door card up while you fight with it.

3. The screws included with mine were too large in diameter, the first few broke the plastic “receptacles” they thread into- I bored out each screw receptacle with a 1/8” drill bit allowing them to thread in easier and had no more break. (Bought on eBay so it’s possible they weren’t the correct/original screws, they were black #6 modified truss style screws).

4. Biggest issue was the white plastic retainer on the end of the oem release cable. On the oem handle assembly it clips securely into place fastening the cable sheath to the back of the handle assembly so the inner steel cable can slide back and forth. The new door handle assembly had the same pocket for the retainer to clip into, but the design wasn’t right, it was physically impossible to completely seat it in place because it interfered with the rest of the handle assembly
.like bad. Something was just way off and it was frustrating. BUT it’s possible this was an earlier design or reject part that shouldn’t have gotten out
I have no idea so I definitely am not bashing anybody for something I bought “new” on eBay with no instructions and also never reaching out for guidance.

Anyways, I got creative, did some grinding and performed enough trickery to get it installed and functioning fine. They look killer, excellent finish quality, overall I’m happy with them for the price I got them for.
Awesome write up! Thank you much. Will double check screw sizes before I begin. I'll let you know how mine ends up fitting. I'll have a helper but when it comes to car stuff, she is best at handing me drinks. Haha.
 

kaj

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I traded the Mach 1 for the Supra. When I visited my buddy @Traxion it was the first time I got to see a Supra in person and drive one. We did an auto cross weekend event, 2 days, and I liked the car much more than I expected to. Was floating around the idea shortly after to trade over to one and a deal came along that I just couldn’t pass up so I made an offer to the general manager and he took my first offer. Probably helped that my cousin was the parts manager but the Supra just seemed better in every aspect except the sound department. The one thing the Mach 1 definitely had over this thing. I did have a premium with all options except recaros and navigation so I’m sure the two are fairly close with the same driver in the car but the Supra is just more fun imo after getting to drive both.
I had a 350R as a track-day car, for a few months. I could have ultimately done better lap times on the R, BUT consumables would have cost quite a bit and I would have had to cut on the car.
The Supra feels so much better to drive, though. I feel like I'm attached to it and it's "listening to me". The R needed to be driven really hard to be fast.
For reference:
* At my local track, a guy with the exact same setup on his R did a 1'53" to my 1'58" (I only did one track day in the Mustang).
* In the Supra, with the exact same mods as the mustang (tires, brake pads and fluid, camber plates), I did a 1'57". And that is considering the camber plates on the mustang actually did something, the camber plates on the Supra didn't allow me much camber because I'm on stock suspension.

So, who knows what that supra is capable of in the right hands, though I will also say I have done an entire season of Time attack in the Supra. So I am obviously much more comfortable with it.
Still about 10 times more fun for me to drive then the mustang.
I do miss the carbon fiber wheels, though lol
 

Vertex

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I had a 350R as a track-day car, for a few months. I could have ultimately done better lap times on the R, BUT consumables would have cost quite a bit and I would have had to cut on the car.
The Supra feels so much better to drive, though. I feel like I'm attached to it and it's "listening to me". The R needed to be driven really hard to be fast.
For reference:
* At my local track, a guy with the exact same setup on his R did a 1'53" to my 1'58" (I only did one track day in the Mustang).
* In the Supra, with the exact same mods as the mustang (tires, brake pads and fluid, camber plates), I did a 1'57". And that is considering the camber plates on the mustang actually did something, the camber plates on the Supra didn't allow me much camber because I'm on stock suspension.

So, who knows what that supra is capable of in the right hands, though I will also say I have done an entire season of Time attack in the Supra. So I am obviously much more comfortable with it.
Still about 10 times more fun for me to drive then the mustang.
I do miss the carbon fiber wheels, though lol
Since I haven’t had nearly as much seat time in the Supra I can’t say everything about it is more fun yet. I will always miss the sound of the Mach 1, it was just such an amazing sounding car. The Supra definitely feels like it drives much better than the mustang though in pretty much every aspect. I unfortunately don’t have much access to more than 1 track that is somewhat close but not sure how good it actually is. Same thing with auto cross with the nearest one being at least 2ish hours away or a little more.

Need to figure out how to get myself down to my best buddies area so I can co drive auto cross with him and then track both our cars đŸ€Ł
 

FLtrackdays

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Wait until you just do a basic tune on the supra, it completely changes it and then it really would kill that mustang after that.
You definitely don’t need a tune. You’ll turn a lot more than Mustang heads just driving her as is (with proper tires, fluid & rubber). I had one Shelby and GT350 or 500 guys keep coming up to me last weekend asking me more about the Supra. I think you’ll be quite surprised if you plan on doing more than your one free track day 😉
 

CWO5805

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Not everything in one day, but a few things. Smoked all the reflectors with kit from premium. Armaspeed wind deflectors. Magnaflow X-Mod. Window tint. Tinted windshield. PPF on the front end
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SooopraSD

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AA catted downpipe and HKS Hi-Power Exhaust
Looks like you could raise it up a little more. Tips hanging down a little low. Pic of mine.
852A9EA6-BB56-4CCE-A46E-D747036DC2FE.jpeg
 

STV3

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Looks like you could raise it up a little more. Tips hanging down a little low. Pic of mine.
852A9EA6-BB56-4CCE-A46E-D747036DC2FE.jpeg
Just curious how you adjusted the height of the tips on that exhaust?
 
 
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