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I just mentioned it in case these cars have a sensor somewhere in the system that might be detecting unusual pressure and disengaging the feature. If the sensor that detects the pressing of the clutch is bad that could also be the reason and makes more sense too but I don't know much about BMW...

Have you tried bleeding the clutch again to see if that helps with your current issue at start up? I also wonder if the clutch is too heavy for the rev matching to work.

Those are pretty underwhelming in terms of specs. One can go past the rating on the stage 3 with just a tune. Anyone getting a decent tune should be looking into something around the 650-700ft-lb range. Picking something so close to what the car can produce is just shortening the clutch lifespan.

Touche... I was only thinking of the slightly tighter spring and my brain completely forgot the strut

It adds a little bit in the rear too but very minimal. Makes me wonder how off the oem alignment might be. Same offset and width on my end but no issues.

HKS springs give you enough clearance. I'm running them with 18x11s and no issues so far.

Comes down to preference. I tend to keep it off to get better at heel and toe but I still turn it on every once in a while. It works great to keep downshifts to 1st or 2nd smooth.

Following... folks here forget that having an auto only means it can shift fast not that the car is fast and forget that a even a well built manual N/A Civic can take them to gapplebees.

'23 A91-MT & '24 GRC. Wish I had a BRZ again but wanted the AWD for the winter. The GRC needs some minor repairs after an idiot backed into it while parked the other day :banghead:

I saw your post about it. Are they going to be sending you a replacement? With how few are running it and how little it has been in the market as an option for us I would have expected them to react with some sort of urgency.

You could try their hydro bearing but not sure how much of a difference it will make.

I meant the GR logo with the text together. They used to have it as an option but seems like they got rid of it. Here's an old screenshot I had saved.

I plan on getting this one. Haven't really seen anyone with it yet. I could have also sworn they had a slightly different one with the "engine start stop" text but can't find it in their site anymore. https://bonoboproducts.com/products/push-start-button-toyota-supra-a90?variant=42020752949409

That hydraulic bearing should also have a shorter throw for the pedal but how much it actually is in practice I have yet to see any real world data. Phil pretty much covered the rest already. Comes down to how well you set it up and if the difference in throw is actually noticeable. You can also...

Just got mine delivered yesterday afternoon. I might wait a bit to get everything installed cuz temps are still dropping a bit in my area and I don't wanna risk a piece flying off at the track day I have mid June. Haven't done a test fit yet but everything looks super clean and the texture...

Thanks for the info. That is actually a bit more than I expected.

Got my PMU Club Racers over the weekend. Finally time to get off my ass and put them on along with front lcas. Out of curiosity, what sort of lifespan should I expect from these? I won't be going full send until I get a bit of seat time so I'm hoping these will last me a bit.

Figured I'd post this here in case anyone else was hoping to run Ecutek on their M/T. I decided to reach out to them and see if there were any updates for M/T Supras but sadly it doesn't look like they will be releasing anything for us.

The heavier knob helps but you don't need to go super heavy either. I run the Raceseng Nitro which is only 317g and I could tell the difference. For me, shifts from 2->3 were not smooth if trying to shift quickly and the knob alone helped me improve this. The rest of the shifts are smoother too...

Did you have to trim any plastics for the cable clearance?