It's wild how solid your post IC intake temps are. I really need to get a Wagner IC. Running in 95 degree heat this coming weekend and guarantee it'll start to pull timing.
I did one in Fusion 360 and 3d printed in ASA and then carbon skinned it. I'll see if i can find the files and put up on cult3d or something. Only thing that sucks is when you need the cup holder, i pop it out and put behind the passenger seat.
I’ve noticed this as well on my pmu cr’s. I feel like they get better after 3-4 runs. It still shudders a bit but much less as they wear in. This was on fresh pads and rotors after a razorlab suggested gnarly bed in process.
Been a little bored so I started mocking up and modeling a GT3 style aero blade that sits in my Rexspeed fenders. Printed using ASA on my X1C. Smooth and epoxy carbon wrapped. Carbon wrap work is subpar on this first one so i'll go to vacuum bagging my next set. Don't know if it'll do much...
Wasn't the Motul LS version supposed to be avoided due to the electronic pre torque requirements?
"Copy paste from FLTrackdays"
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/transmission-and-differential-fluid-change.6893/page-4
I also threw it into a multiple AI engine that checks others for...
I believe it's Germany only. I just ordered one yesterday and it's already shipping via DHL. All others on here seem to have had great experience ordering direct.
I believe the only issue is how quickly it updates, at least with the iphones. If i remember correctly it's only allowed to pull data every so often vs constantly according to apple terms / app terms. Maybe this has changed. When you display direct to your phone it updated quickly but through...
Does running a larger cat like AMS or AA Gesi downpipe help with under hood and/ or intake temps? I'm not tuned but it's hot here in Vegas and looking at an aftermarket manifold and aftermarket catted downpipe to help with temps. Is it worth it on stock tune with a 6 port?
Where I arrowed is where you can pull out to close that gap. Just behind the liner there i wedge the board to push out between fender and frame. It worked quiet well to close that gap right at the hood wheel arch.
I’ll try to get a picture or diagram of what I did. Essentially if you grab the fender at the wheel arch just about an inch under the upper bump out and pull straight out you’ll see how that gap pushes up and closes a bit. I wedged a piece of treated 1x4 in there to push it out and used...
Jackie covers the change I believe in this video link below. I have a feeling he's going to be moving away from the M2 he's currently driving and either back to the Supra or another chassis. The M2 is way off pace even with new aero and stripping the weight out.