I get the sense that SPL gear is an "it depends" sort of buy.
If you spend all your time on the street, it's a huge upgrade in adjustability/road feel/compliance/handling. It feels REALLY different from stock, and feels great. The alternatives are notably worse in construction (e.g. Megan...
Lambdasonde is German for "lambda sensor," AKA O2 sensor.
You have a CEL because of your catless downpipe. You cannot fix it without a tune (in b4 someone with a defouler goes "WELL IT WORKED ON MY CAR") or restoring a catted downpipe.
Yes, seems MTs don't have the same clearance. Removing the brackets is not terrible, as I did that for my first-ever engine mount install, but it does require removal of the front wheels and removal of some plastic access panel covers. You can get a straight shot to all four bolts on each mount...
Dust it off the windows. Let mother nature melt the rest.
I spent most of my driving life in Michigan or Toronto and have driven through some serious shit, so that's my POV on what to do if you are absolutely forced to drive in the snow:
1. Whatever the speed limit is, cut it in half. More...
Yeeeeeah, something tells me the "TikTok brain rot" generation doesn't have the money to buy a $60K car. These are kids in their early 20s, or younger.
The Supra is very solidly a millennial/GenX car. You can safely blame any foolishness on fully grown-ass adults.
I'm not out there with a ruler measuring it or anything. Removed engine cover. Unbolted mounts. Disconnected downpipe. Raise engine. That's it: both engine mounts can be plucked out by hand. If your jack doesn't reach, then use a wood block.
Yes, DI rail is a mechanical pump. To rephrase: my low side fuel line is teed, with one line going to DI and the other going to PI. I have a pressure sensor on the line going to the PI system, but no sensor on the line going to the DI system. This makes it possible that both lines are low from a...
I, personally, have no reason to believe this. The DI rail receives the correct pressure every time, so I'd wager a faulty module would also cause performance issues on the DI rail. My Supra only has about 10,000 miles, so no reason to expect faults from age or use either.
My current theory is...
I also have the same issue. Car sits a long time and the PI rail sags to 40 until the car warms up, then everything is fine. Was going to experimentally install a fuel-rated check valve to stop any potential drainback, and I ALSO wasted a ton of time looking for non-existent leaks. Nice find...
There's nothing normal or expected about this. Like a "1 of 1" type report, to the extent that I'd be surprised if we find anyone else has red experienced this. I'd disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens, if it were me.
You will be fine. As long as all the O2s are installed and working, you have a tune that removes CELs for emissions codes, and you haven't recently reset your battery then you will pass. This works in every Texas emissions county.
I live in Texas in an emissions county.
Low battery? You'll probably fail.
Pulled the battery? You'll definitely fail.
Clear codes? You'll definitely fail.
O2 CEL or not tuned out? You'll definitely fail.
EVAP CEL or not tuned out? You'll definitely fail.
Recently swapped to a BBK and also needed ISTA to flush the ABS solenoids. Brakes were mushy crap without it. $70 license + power bleeder required. Pressurize power bleeder to ~15 PSI.
I really, really love a beefy front sway bar on this car. Feels so responsive!
But I would say tires, wheels, and traction rods.
Edit: and diff lockdown.
Edit 2: and Amsoil blue ATF in the transmission.
Verus' instructions are overly difficult.
Just jack the engine up and pull them out per my post earlier in this thread.
I've removed and installed 3 different mounts this way, including Verus.
Downpipe can stay on. But would be good to unbolt the exhaust from it.