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H&R springs should be installed matching the orientation of the OEM spring being removed. For example: 1) If the OEM spring tapers to be more narrow at the bottom, the new spring should be installed in the same orientation. 2) If the OEM spring has tighter spacing on the coils at the top, the...

You can also use jacks, pry bars, pickle forks, ball joint separators, and wedges to move the hub around.

Size the center-to-center length of the new arm to match the old, then get an alignment. That's the "best" way. The other way is to just get it to whatever length fits the current hub position and get an alignment.

If you don't want to revise the tune or build the trans, then it's always going to slip in 6th at this torque. Turn on Kickdown DISABLE in XHP and the car will no longer automatically drop gears when you go to WOT. That means you need to be in 5th gear (or lower) on your own before dropping the...

The spike and dropoff is the trans slipping and re-catching. The tune needs to keep the torque under 800Nm or it's likely to slip on the stock trans in 5->6. If your new tune is pushing nearly 900Nm, your tuner needs another revision.

That's exactly it (bolded).

This is not needed unless you're past the ~800Nm holding power of 6th gear and you're trying to squeeze a little more power out of the gear before it lets go and free spins. This option is not needed unless you're already burning up that clutch pack. It is unfortunate that 6th is weak because...

A full e85 map on the stock fueling will probably use less boost and less engine timing to keep the fuel trims accurate. I would not be surprised if an E60 tune was more powerful as the sweet spot of ethanol v. timing v. boost. It's not that the car can't pump full e85. It's that the pump can...

Do the torque limiting in the DME tune, not XHP. It'll work far better at accomplishing what you want. 6th is the weak gear. It's why it's advisable to stay under 600lb-ft/800Nm. Any tuner worth their salt has already done this for you. If you're still blowing the tires off, get better tires or...

It does not surprise me to hear this. Titanium is extremely difficult to weld. Joints need multiple stages of grinding and acetone cleaning to remove surface impurities. After tacking the joint, you need a very long argon back purge time to flush out atmospheric impurities that could compromise...

Agree. Gotta be WinOLS.

This is a larger core for the stock turbo. Very slightly larger. It's called a "stuffed turbo" because you're stuffing larger internals into the same turbo. The back half of the turbo stays bolted to the car, and you remove+replace the front half and the spinny bits. The spinny bits are called...

Yours also stopped making power at 6K. Your peak HP was at 5980 RPM and it's flat to down after that. The stock turbo just gets wheezy.

This is roughly equivalent to US 93 octane. About 550 wheel horsepower, after which the petrol will get unstable in the cylinder before combustion. You can figure ±20 on that number depending on IATs, tuner, ambient air temp. The limiting factor to power in the described setup is the fuel...

Good stuffed turbo solution. Economical.

Based on the map slots, this sounds like a Marin tune. If I'm right: Map 1 is tuned, but low boost Map 2 is tuned, but spicy boost Map 3, ??? Map 7 is tuned, slow as hell valet mode

All cars range a little bit from rich to lean, then stoich, on a cold start. This makes the car a bit burbly. On most cars, this is broadly masked by the temporary high RPM for catalytic converter heating. Nothing to worry about.

AFAIK there are two black 3.0s in South Austin: myself and @AustinGRSupra. I take Brodie regularly, so it might've been me. :p

This is similar to what I've done in my own Supra with a NOCO onboard. Same bolts. Works great.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/solve-rear-end-clunking-with-lowering-springs-on-the-mkv-supra.10852/