Search results

Thanks. Hopefully it is just that, but I'd feel better if the dealership at least documents the leak.

The thing that worries me a bit is that the manual states that using a device that plugs into the OBD II port can have (in some words) negative consequences with the car's electronics. They could take note of the device in case a electronics issue while under warranty surfaces.

Bryan, do you think that the dealership will be concerned when they see my ScanGauge in the car?

Did you take your car to the dealership for verification?

I asked the dealership's dedicated Supra service rep if he's had to check out many Supras with diff leakage, and he said that he cannot recall any. He says he has a Supra in the shop every few months, mostly for oil changes. I hope you are correct, since the dealership most likely doesn't stock...

So it is "normally" not a leak, but rather a sweating of oil so to speak? By the way, I cannot find anything in the maintenance schedule that specifies when the diff fluid needs to be changed.

Thanks. I ran a search but could not find any postings that were fairly recent. That made me think that this is no longer common.

at about 800 miles....bringing it in, tomorrow.

Interesting.....

Yes, it was low to mid 70s today. So the OEM intake path is essentially a CAI, correct?

Good to know.....perhaps a CAI is in my future.

Anything over 110 F in my 01 Corvette would trigger the ECU to retard the ignition. That's why I had installed a cold air "scoop" of sorts under the engine. After that, temps rarely exceeded 90 degrees.

But getting back on track..... I actually parked for 1 hour and NO ONE PARKED IN AN ADJACENT PARKING SPOT! It truly was a miracle!:eek:

ScanGauge is in place and working. The right side panels have captive screws and the left has screws with centering noses (not captive). For some reason, the right side, left captive screw is a pain to align with its mating hole. There is a left panel slot that allows you to exit from inside the...

ScanGauge is in place and working. The right side panels have captive screws and the left has screws with centering noses (not captive). For some reason, the right side, left captive screw is a pain to align with its mating hole. There is a right panel slot that allows you to exit from inside...

True. That is one way.:thumbsup:

Are you sure about that? If so, then it would be a heckofa lot easier, depending upon the adhesive aggressiveness.

Yes, a positioning template similar to what the factory uses would be helpful. My experience with "eyeballing" correct position without practice has been less than professional. I recall the first time I laid ceramic tiles.........not so good!

If I had the ready-made template/positioning tool, I may have. Otherwise, I'd have to design and 3D-print one (if I had a 3D printer). By the way, the dealership had a GR Corolla on the lot. Its sticker included a $7500 ADM.

I know for certain that there is one identical to my Mikan Blast, 40 minutes north of me. I have been driving around here almost every day and have yet to see one. Of course, I like that rarity. ;)