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Should cross reference the cD and L/D data too. Most look for the highest cL and pay no attention to the amount of drag which is equally as important.

They don’t release their numbers at all, I asked. I then asked could I get a ballpark range of their L/D just to get a window of the wing efficiency they sent me the data from Dundon and said the 330mm is very similar.

Gotta be careful with those 90 deg adapters, an inexperienced installer can easily snap the head of the sensor if the sensor isn’t set to the correct spot during the install/removal of the tire. Depending on the design of the inner barrel you can drill and insert a sleeve for the tpms right...

Agree. You can compare all the charts you want but if it doesn’t translate at the track what good does it do.

It’s hard to directly compare data from different manufacturers since testing samples are not the same. i.e. tested wingspan width are different.

Don’t feel like doing a whole write up, busy with other projects.

If anyone is interested they can message me. They are direct replacement, you do need to run a misalignment sleeve/collar as the replacement monoball 14mm ID vs the oem bushing being a 12mm.

Been working on this project, figuring out which bushings I can find an oem monoball to fit in its place. Found 5 of 7 bushings can be replaced, the others will get a cup machined with a spherical bearing.

Bump for a solid dude!

Got a friend looking to build a race car, I tried to get this one. I put in a bid of 22k, didn’t get it… sold for $25k.

You might be fighting the sway bar, disconnect the sway bar endlink on one side then try to align it.

I wouldn’t go to Forza. His alignments are way off, either the lift and/or machine hasn’t been recalibrated. Got an alignment there and I could visually see that the camber was different from side to side. I went home and measured it with a gauge and it was off by .6 degrees. Ended up taking it...

Factory lower arm gets you in the proper camber range. Factory eccentric holds well, only benefit to changing this arm is the spherical bearings.

With 73 miles on the car.

No caffeine yet, I’m taking a closer look at your first photo, it looks like you the joint is facing forward. Rotate the bracket and you should be good.

Sway link is installed wrong on both ends. The joint that is mounted on the damper should have the stud facing towards the front of the car. The joint that mounts to the sway bar should have the stud facing away the chassis. Nitrons sway bracket is adjustable as well if you’re still having...

Can’t beat the Tomei single, 3.5” full titanium for $1100 new.

Whiteline offers a complete sway bar kit with adjustable end links that have a boot. I have zero issues with this kit. https://whitelineperformance.com/products/btk009-sway-bar-vehicle-kit

Ecutek racerom has the option to hack the sport display and use them to display other data, boost/ethanol content.. etc.

ATS kit came in, building the trans and full drivetrain refresh over the summer.