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^ what they said. I also stacked my lap belts with the factory belt mounting. I added in a flanged sleeve/bushing on each mount to keep articulation of the belts.

Manufacturer of the arm didn’t design with having ease of adjustment in mind. I would extend the inner joint so the jam nut sits right on the edge the pocket of the subframe. You have to double check shank length to see if you can run one side extended and still have enough thread engagement...

When you upgrade the flywheel to a non dual mass, you get chatter at idle when not on the clutch which completely normal. Let’s just double the viscosity of your oil just to reduce sound? Makes perfect sense. /s

75-90 for the trans. 75-140 for the diff. I wouldn’t put 140 in the trans, that’s nearly double the viscosity at temp.

I don’t think you did, quoted below. Only way to truly prevent build up is water injection. The average Supra owner is not going to do that. Walnut blasting is gonna be their best bet to keep it under control.

Yea that how they install. I’m not a fan of that style where they just throw a silicone coupler over the factory inlet. If you want a plug and play piece that is actually held in with the factory clip grab a CTS inlet.

Exhaust system part numbers, sounds like you need #4 from the second photo.

No problem, to get the line through the vent you just cut a slot the side of the vent (towards the front of the car). Run the reservoir into the car and snap the vent back in with the line in the slot you cut out. Attached a photo for you.

Made a sub mount bracket, finished up the harnesses with RSpro collars, and added bushings for the JRZ reservoirs.

@Carfreak70852 remounted the rear reservoirs today snapped a pic of the rear entry point on the passenger side. You can see the area I trimmed off of the fuse box frame to have better clearance. Driver side is the same, except for you have the TCU control unit in front of the access vent.

If you’re worried about sway bar stiction, you’re probably not gonna be a fan of high pressure dampers. The bushing is urethane which is a poor material for a bushing, but on a sway bar it’ll be fine and will conform to shape.

If you have access to a 3D printer you can purchase the stl file from here and print your own.

HKS uses a barrel spring so it’s likely that the spring is making contact. You would want to back it off a bit the whole strut assembly turns with the front knuckles.

What coilover/spring setup? If you have a larger barrel type or progressive spring it could be coming in contact with the shock tower limiting the camber. Here is a JRZ plate 3.8-3.9 camber on factory arms.

I’ll be Podium Club in a week. @Todday1 is on the entry list as well as a few other non forum members.

I’ll be at podium on Saturday, see you there!

Trimmed/fitted all the factory panels to clear the Walker Pro Motorsport roll bar. Relocated JRZ canisters to the roll bar, still need to install the bushings that fit between the canisters/roll bar.

I got it from a friend, you can try emailing a shop like Evasive Motorsports which carries Recaro Japan parts and ask for the Supra specific kit.

You should try the Recaro Japan “base frame” kit, it’s a slider with all the base mounts attached. The mounts also have the brackets (seat belt receptacle bracket shown in pic attached) to swap over your oem seat belt hardware. Recaro kit includes an airbag bypass(didn’t use), all the hardware...

Trunk has vents on both driver/passenger side. Bumper/bumper mounting cage needs to be removed to access these vents. Cage also needs to be trimmed slightly for the line to pass through.