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It would be both as the angle of the upright changes, so will scrub.

Also with a macpherson strut when camber is added the scrub radius will change, adding spacers will get you back to where it was.

For the amount of oil in the pan in 30 miles, it’s likely the turbo.

You would probably say that I’m trolling when I tell you with the factory charge air cooler system my IAT is only 4F degrees over ambient (83F) with engine coolant temps at 209F. A thing called heat management comes into play here.

LOL. That must be it. Don’t you own one of these amazing pipes? If you don’t and would like to purchase one and have first hand experience I have one available. If you do own one… next time you drive, and the car at temp and heat soaked just like in real world conditions, run a log. Keep start...

Of course it makes no sense to the guy who makes it, don’t worry people will still buy it… your hot air intakes are still popular isn’t it? Now let’s think logically. At part throttle it’s constantly bleeding off charge air (~240F, over 300F at the track) into the engine bay, tell me where...

Double check the collar sleeve/spacer tolerance to the bushing. I had some with a little bit more play than I’m comfortable with so I made new ones.

Got this for the novelty of having a blow off, however after 2 weeks this thing is back in a box and gonna sell it. IAT’s are increased by about 20F due to additional heat soak from the hot charge air bleeding directly in front of the intake manifold.

Should also note that QD’s come standard up front. Additional useful information: Rear QD are NOT needed to route the canister into the cabin for all BMW chassis, no holes need to be drilled either. If the shop that is installing requires QD/drilling holes in the car, find a shop with more...

Don’t know how much you paid new but $8k that’s over retail unless you’re on Motorsport dampers. Hope I’m not the other guy? Because I’ve owned every variant of JRZ has to offer including their Motorsport 1232 dampers. JRZ price sheet attached for those wondering what retail is.

Dual can works best. Valve cover vent to catch can (vta) Oil cap vent to catch can (vta) Block crank case vent to catch can (sealed) back to turbo inlet.

Explain crashy? JRZ can eat up a lot of curb without upsetting the car. Are you maxed out on adjustments at all? What gas pressure and spring rates? How many clicks comp/rebound? This style camber plate design I actually prefer over the 4 allen screws. Reduces overall stack height, and easier...

Mounting and routing is easy, no cutting involved. I’ll show you some tricks I’ve learned over the years. Charging nitrogen is easy with the equipment, if you don’t have the equipment it’s not a big deal… it’s a set and forget type of deal. I usually check nitro pressures every few events and i...

I posted in another thread. Fairly common typical BMW PCV, search B58 PCV. Forgot to add, if you don’t have excessive crankcase vacuum it’s burning off excess oil accumulated in the pcv through the pcv ports in the cylinder head when under vacuum.

Previous generation B58 had this problem, a sign that the PCV valve is going bad. The gen2 has an updated PCV that is built into the valve cover. Easy way to check if the PCV has failed is while the car is at idle crack open the oil cap, if there is excessive vacuum when lifting the oil cap...

Fronts come with quick disconnect included, rears are optional. I’ll be mounting them to the car with some canister mounts. I’ll take some pics and maybe do a little write up.

Correct and JRZ manufactures everything in house, the latter does not. Olsen guys are solid, they have videos of the shock dyno and how the adjustments changes with each click.

This build should be a street/hpde car. I’m done turning street cars into full race cars. Fully sorted suspension, 2pc disc + oem calipers, bolt ons for engine. Not touching interior or aero… yet.

I have a set of RS Pro arriving soon, I’ll post some detailed photos. The camber plate design is something pay attention to for this chassis, no need for tiny little allen head screws to adjust. RS Pro (2 way) ~$5700 RS Pro 3 (3-way) ~$6700 They offer the Motorsport line as well those are...

I’ve used KW, Ohlins, Moton (when they were still in business), MCS, JRZ. I strictly use JRZ now. Suspension is definitely something you don’t want to cheap out on if you’re looking to track your car. How far up the scale you want to go in terms of quality is dependent on how much you track...