put it in 3rd or 4th, preferably 3k or lower. mash the gas pedal all the way down, feel free to continue the pull for one or two shifts.
no need to manually start logging by tapping the button, the jb4 will auto-log once you floor it (as long as it isn't disabled in app settings).
Your call on...
on both logs you are playing around with the gas pedal too much and don't go all the way down until nearly at the top of the gear. as a result, the jb4 is not actually commanding the wgdc for most of the pulls.
on the map 2 log I checked timestamp 520 and 3618. on map 4, 1013 and 3613.
i think the "routes to big power" thread is partly to blame, since the example breakpoint for LPFP does not specify whether the assumed fuel is 93, e85, or a blend. as you know, the stoich difference is non-trivial, so if someone interpreted the following quote:
to mean 650 whp on 93, then...
Maybe it's just the lighting, but it looks like the bushing doesn't even wrap entirely around the bar, like it was designed for smaller diameter or they sent you the wrong one
i would not read too much into a cause and effect with such small changes. the dme itself can vary boost targets (and therefore the control strategy to achieve those targets) by 2 psi from pull to pull within minutes of each other.
At the boost levels you're currently running, we're still in the throttle valve's command range, and fuel trims at the high end are nowhere near maxed. You're unlikely to hit fuel cut/limp mode.
But, yes, I'm suggesting that you can run more boost at 5k (and above) if you wanted to, and the...
Trims and timing look great. You have throttle closures right at 5k that corresponds to your target curve ramping down, at the same time that FF is ramping up. You're basically asking the JB4 to do opposite things at the same time.
You can either change your duty bias to ramp up less...
Get a magnet on a bendy stick
That being said I don't blame you, the button head bolt and loose spacers combo is clearly not the best design decision by verus. if you drop a spacer, the undertay will need to come off because those are non-magnetic.
also, dont be surprised if the new DP won't slip onto the exhaust until you get it aligned up perfectly. i spent an hour just trying to get it started, seriously considered renting a pipe expander. be aggressive with it, use your whole body and legs to shove things around.
Ignition timing in all cylinders except 3 are all super smooth. i wouldn't worry about this unless cyl 3 keeps having this problem, pull-to-pull variations are normal (remember knock is a stochastic event).
FF and WGDC look nice and aligned, no throttle closures.
Trims are momentarily high...