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just to rule it out, you have the grommets with the "funnel" side on top, correct? i recall seeing one youtube tutorial where the guy put it on upside down. at 10:25 you should see one on the left side still upside down as he's complaining about the other grommets falling out

Quick update with review. wheel hop is not eliminated, but it is significantly reduced. it feels like the amplitude of hop is roughly halved, and feels like it damps out much quicker as well (say, 4-6 hops per event rather than 10-15)

i just realized that the other thread got merged into this one by a mod, which makes your reply very confusing now dead link https://www.supramkv.com/threads/not-all-people-deserve-fast-cars.20686/

yeah 275 f is pretty typical for NA cars on the track.

been that way for awhile, since the early 2000s at least. https://www.firehouse.com/rescue/article/10503660/subaru-ringshaped-reinforcement-frame

https://www.jb4tech.com/forum/model-specific-engine-tuning-modification-discussion/b58-b48/4984-jb4-b48-b58-firmware-settings-and-notes only change I recommend for a first run is using a slightly lower boost failsafe of 23-ish.

from the pictures it look like the can and bracket will clear, but the hose will be very close. probably need someone to test fit it to be sure.

Link: https://members.drivenasa.com/events/4434 I see there's a half dozen or so supras signed up for hpde3/4, are you guys on here? It looks like the hotel prices in south haven are sky high this time of year, so was planning on staying in benton harbor.

I just tried iRacing for the first time at a dedicated rig facility, is it just me or is it nearly impossible to catch Oversteer in that? small amounts sure, but I was not able to pull off a successful drift after trying my hardest for like 20 minutes in a miata.

what I ended up doing was extending the arms out to zero preload alignment, get the bolts through, then pulled the arms in to full short, and then counted the number of turns needed to go back out to stock length when measured off the car (22x 60-degree turns for the megans)

Yeah I thought about it a bit, having a non-stock lower link length will change the arc radius and path. tricky part is that the hole is so far off that i couldn't use the screwdriver trick on that side

while uninstalling the factory traction links, they were under quite a bit of preload and required some elbow grease to remove. upon inspection, the factory arm on one side was about 10mm too short to reinstall the bolts without a fight. the new links are adjustable so i could either install...

tap threads. m10x1.5 is the size you need.

they were driving single file on an on-ramp (this was the car before, you also see a glimpse of the car behind)

no trimming of the bmw cover needed to clear aftermarket charge pipes?

sent a pm

wow, I'm really surprised that the temps returned to quasi-steady just half a lap after your cooldown. I would have figured that the water system would have had more thermal inertia than that.

Additionally, Even if its the exact same supplier, the US company can cherry pick the best balanced wheels, and send the defects back, which later end up on Alibaba. Ivanko (the weight lifting company) talked about "sliders" in a blog post...

According to this post from @Thraxbert I found, tein is the only company that sells standalone coil sleeves (they call them isolators). This would explain why you have tein sleeves on a non-tein spring...

based on the coil pitch, my theory is they are RS-R super down springs, with coil sleeves installed by the previous owner if correct, you should be able to pull off the top sleeve by hand and see if there is an rsr logo