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Yes, traction

Kind of, but with a couple significant differences. When the wheel bolts start to stretch, they won’t thread into the hub properly and can be replaced. When wheel studs start to stretch, you have no idea until they shear. If a wheel bolt does shear in the hub, it’s much easier to replace than...

True, but studs aren’t a one and done solution. They’re a wear item and should be replaced periodically, especially if you track the car.

I have the Future Classic set of hangers https://futureclassic.us/collections/toyota/products/future-classic-wheel-hanger-pin

Did they really plot engine speed vs engine speed, and it's somehow not a perfectly straight line? And why does the header say it's a 2021 if it's an MT? 370 on a Mustang seems reasonable though.

Verus

When I was 23, a year out of college with a decent job, I bought myself an STi for $35k. Adjusting for inflation that’s just over $50k today, a little low but not far off the Supra’s price tag. So don’t feel guilty, if I had been born 15 years later I’d probably be in the exact same position...

I'm done with it now, it was only necessary for the rear sway and upper arms which are all done. The other arms I have left to do in a couple weeks should be pretty straight forward. Cusco's rear sway install doc is a good reference for dropping the subframe...

Installed the SPL rear upper arms, Cusco rear sway, SPL front and rear endlinks, and shortened the front sway to make room for the SPL LCAs. This was as much as I could do without an alignment. I have one scheduled in 2 weeks, so I'll go back in and do the rear toe arms, front LCAs, and tie...

He said he was installing the MST intake, no need to remove the charge pipe for that. I assume he just called the inlet pipe a “charge pipe” by mistake. I probably shouldn’t be making assumptions like that though…

Here is the bolt removed and inserted the other direction. There’s plenty of room for it to move without hitting the subframe, even with a socket and wrench stacked on

Here are some pics from yesterday. Subframe at normal height, nut removed and the bolt pushed about 1/2” out Here is a hackzall blade on the bolt, ready to cut I didn’t do it, just placed it there. It’s tight but should be doable, you’d have to be careful not to hit the mount or the lines...

It happens a lot. It’s not a MAF, just a temp sensor, a leak there doesn’t matter and it’ll work fine with one bolt.

It's nice that we have this forum where all of us can hang out and talk about a car that none of us own and can't afford though

Why's he on some local chat for stuff like that? Has he tried NASIOC? The info there was absolutely fantastic when I was building my STi 10-15 years ago. I know it's not an Impreza, but under the hood they're all basically the same.

It's hard to say from the angle of that picture, if there's a bit of room you might be able to pull the nut off, push the bolt through until it hits the body, and then use a sawzall/cutoff wheel to cut the head of the bolt off, then push it back through the other way. I'll be doing the install...

I'll let you know when I install them this weekend, I suspect you might be able to do something like that

It's one of the rear upper arms, for some stupid reason Toyota put the bolt in the "wrong" direction, so it hits the body of the car when you try to pull it out, forcing you to drop the subframe to remove it. When swapping out the arm it's a good idea (and is suggested in the SPL install docs)...

LCAs Did you get all of the replacement OEM bolts to swap out when you drop the subframe? A lot of those bolts are one-time-use. It's not expensive to replace them, but due to backorders it took me over a month to get them (just got the package in the mail a week ago, ordered at the end of...

They cover up the warning labels on the sun visors