What’s up with Millway’s site? It seems every time I go they have even fewer products for our platform. A couple months ago they had multiple mounts/bushings and camber plates, then the camber plates disappeared, now the mounts have disappeared and all they show is one bushing.
Do you know how he's doing it? The Motiv Reflex is the standard controller for port injection, and at least according to this thread it can't integrate with BM3:
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/injectors-for-intake-manifold.14089/
Yes. For the shipping spacer just lift up the dust boot, you don't even need to pull the wheel off. The shipping spacer is a ~1.5" thick block of white plastic that clips onto the strut for shipping, it just unclips to remove it. A lot of dealers forget to remove these before selling the car...
I gave mine about 2 weeks before I re-adjusted to level things out. I haven't seen any significant shifts since then. Your picture looks much higher than mine though, it looks like you're still at factory ride height. Did the installer make sure to remove the shipping spacers and the factory...
And just for fun, here's the alignment results for a "spirited street" setup. Somehow I ended up with slightly unbalanced caster, I'm considering getting the adjustable caster bushings to be able to clean that up, but in the mean time it'll be fine. The zero toe up front makes it walk a bit on...
Rear Camber Lockout Kit:
This one is deceivingly difficult. It looks like it should be easy, it's just one bolt, but it's kind of rough. This bolt goes on the subframe end of the lower control arm in the rear (the big fat OEM arm that the strut, spring, and knuckle all mount to). There are...
Rear Upper Arms:
This install sucked, mainly because you have to drop the subframe to get one of the bolts out. Cusco's rear sway install doc is a really good guide for dropping the subframe...
Rear Toe Arm with Toe Lockout Kit:
Really easy install, SPL's docs cover everything pretty well. They do suggest putting the toe lockout bolt in from the rear so the nut is hidden inside the subrame though. I didn't like that, I was too worried about dropping the lockout bracket or nut inside...
Rear Traction Links:
Pretty easy install, nothing was too challenging. This is a good first arm to get your feet wet. And as long as you set the length the same as the factory arm, you don't really need to get an alignment for it either. I did this arm first, and it cleaned up most of my...
Front Tie Rod Ends:
Super easy install, nothing was problematic. The SPL docs say to mark the tie rods so you know how far to thread the SPL ends on, and while I guess that's an ok starting point, it was still WAY off for me. I had probably 3-4 degrees of toe-out on both sides initially, and...
Front LCAs:
The installation was pretty straight forward, nothing jumped out to me as missing from SPL's docs, but I did find that separating the leveling sensor on the driver's side from the stock arm SUCKED ASS. Nothing I did worked, the plastic bracket on the factory LCA snapped almost...
I recently installed the full set of SPL arms on my car, and I was surprised to find very little information here on them. Lots of people running them, but basically nothing on the install process, tips and tricks, etc., so I figured I would make one. This isn't a step-by-step install guide...
That would have been a good idea, unfortunately I already left. I talked to the tech working on my car, the blue one was getting springs, F/R sways, downpipe, and a couple other things. It only had 700 miles on the clock.
I’m sitting here in the waiting room at Bluewater Performance getting an alignment done, and there’s a beautiful blue 2023 up on the lift getting some suspension work done. Anyone that’s on here?
Finished the SPL install today. I did the rear toe links, rear toe and camber lockouts, front LCAs, and front tie rod ends. That goes with the rear traction links I did a couple months ago, and the rear upper arms 2 weeks ago. Alignment scheduled for Monday to fix this god awful monstrosity...
And even if it did, the airbag is the only time-consuming part and it has to come off regardless. Like @zrk said, once the airbag is off, pulling the wheel is like 2 simple connectors and 1 bolt, it takes no time at all.