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The car will run fine without a tune, you just won't make any more power than stock. The dealership could tell you did something based on tooling marks on the bolts, but that should be it as long as you use one of the catted downpipes that doesn't trigger a CEL.

So an early 2021?

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/favorite-site-for-supa-parts-one-stop-shop.14476/

Ecutek

1. CarPlay 7. Tire Pressure 8. Sport Display (boost pressure and ethanol content)

I wouldn’t leave it on stands that long. It’s not good for the suspension bushings and I’ve heard rumblings about it being bad for the frame as well, especially if your garage floor isn’t perfectly level. It’d be better to get some cheap junkyard tires and leave it on the ground IMO.

@NitroYellowMKV

Does the EOS manifold include a phenolic spacer to isolate it from the head? There's no mention of it on their site and nothing in pictures, but I did see one mention of it a while ago here on the forums. Also, does the EOS manifold include dummy injectors for people still using the stock fuel...

Same The people who dial them up to max and drive down city streets at 5am sounding like a fucking mobile anti-aircraft gun can go to hell, but a little bit of burble and pop on downshifts sounds good.

Mine disappeared when I did the SPL rear links (traction link + upper arms). I’m sure solid diff mounts would fix it too, it’s all about reducing flex in the drivetrain.

That’s a cheap fix though

Same. All it needs is a tach and it’d be perfect, I’m really surprised they didn’t bother to add that.

How would one go about installing the EOS manifold without adding port injection at the same time? Are there dummy injectors or a blockoff plate that can be installed to plug the injector holes? I assume you can just leave the fuel rail disconnected from the rest of the fuel system. Anything...

They’ll most likely wear the stock strut out faster than the stock springs would, but it will still last for many years. I’d be surprised if the BC strut would last any longer honestly. That was the front camber, since it’s not adjustable that’s just where it will be. The rear is adjustable...

The HKS Hipermax adjustable springs will most likely be a better option than those, and are cheaper. With them set at the default height it should be very close to what you’re looking for. No other parts are necessary, just an alignment. You should be sitting at about -2 to -2.5 deg camber...

Great tool, especially when working on the suspension. I’m pretty sure that’s what I used when I did my steering wheel, the bolt came off so easily that I never really registered it as being an issue.

I think I've seen 4 total in the Boulder area of Colorado, so about one every 6 months.

I always have loved the effect that stiffer motor mounts have on my previous cars, but I'm not sure if it's worth $400 and a 4+ hour install. I think I'll wait for other people to install them and report back on the effect it had on noise and feel.

Differential mounts I thought

SPL also has them in a non-adjustable version like the millway bushing: https://www.splparts.com/products/front-caster-rod-bushings-non-adjustable-toyota-supra-a90-gr-bmw-z4-g29.html