You don’t need to loosen that bolt when doing basic springs/struts. You’ll remove the bolts on the strut and spindle (the two bolts on the right side of that arm in your picture), then swing the arm down while keeping the bolt you’re asking about in place. I suppose you could remove it if you...
Well shit, never mind. I went back and checked the install docs for my SPL camber lockout kit that replaces that bolt, and it’s definitely 74 ftlb. I assumed the stock bolt would be the same but I guess it’s higher because it has to hold the eccentric in place.
74 ftlb IIRC, it’s not crazy high. That’s the camber adjustment bolt so when you get an alignment the shop will be re-torquing it anyway.
Edit: don’t listen to me, I’m wrong, see below
Visconti has a remote unlock option. It costs a bit more but they ship you the hardware, walk you through hooking it up to your own ECU, and then remote into your computer to do the unlock. Or you can ship your ECU to them to unlock it, but then you have to worry about the shipping company...
A month or two ago I drove to work, parked, locked the car, and went inside. An hour or so later a coworker came up to me and said that my lights were flashing. I went outside and everything was normal, no flashing.
No idea what it was, but it apparently stopped on its own.
I use QuickJacks, so I don’t use the diff as a real jack point, but when I dropped the subframe I was still able to get a jack on the diff with the Verus cooler installed. The available surface area is reduced though, and the surface you do have is more curved, so you have to be a bit more careful.
I drove with just a front sway for about a year, then added the rear sway a month or two ago.
The front made a positive difference, it helped to tighten up the front end and make the car feel more stable. It did introduce some understeer, but it was a worthwhile install. Adding the rear sway...
Or even if you don’t want to do them at the same time, you should at least flip that bolt around the other way so that if you do ever install the arms, you won’t have to drop the subframe again.
I’ve known several people who were into cars and ended up trading for a truck. I don’t know a single one who stayed that way. All of them, every single one, was happy with the truck for a few months or a year, before the itch to drive something that actually handles reasonably well and is...
It does shift smoother than stock. I’d say xHP is worth it for the modified shift points in normal mode alone, it actually makes normal auto mode usable instead of driving in a permanent state of bog.
Speed vs RPM is a linear relationship. If you know the RPM and speed at any point in 2nd gear you can easily calculate what the speed will be at redline.