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I gotta be honest, I’d pay good money to see someone jack and stand all four corners in 45 seconds

That’s all I did

I didn’t, it’s really more of a curiosity thing…it doesn’t affect the process or your results in any way. If it would be that painful to get before measurements, I’d just skip it.

Yes. I was able to adjust the front on the car (I still needed a spring compressor and a hammer though). The rear I had to remove and stick in a vice to loosen the seat. Luckily removing the rear from the car is pretty quick and easy. I think so, I didn't measure though. When I first...

I installed them as-is, drove around for about 2 weeks to let them settle, made some qualitative observations (I like the back left, front right is too low, etc.), made ground-to-fender measurements to pair with the qualitative observations to make sure I wasn't crazy, and then adjusted them...

Sorry I should have clarified, it feels much better after the alignment than before. HKS post-alignment feels similar to H&R post-alignment, the drop is just much more balanced now. My only complaint with the H&R is front/rear height imbalance. The drop was perfect initially, until I saw the...

Got an alignment today after swapping out my H&R springs for HKS Hipermax Touring a while back. It feels so much better now. Sorry for the garbage resolution, that's all I got...

It’s happened to me twice so far. They recently resurfaced the road to my office and when they were done they just left all of the gravel there rather than sweeping it up. It’s like driving down a gravel road now. The first time it happened I picked one up while pulling into the work parking...

Typical driving is sport mode, manual, all nanny systems on. Aggressive driving is the same but in “traction mode”. I almost never drive in normal or auto modes, only for extended freeway driving.

Maybe try reaching out to some of the larger tuners and ask if they have a record of that VIN? I'm not sure if that's something they would be willing to share or not, but it's worth a try I think. Visconti, Botti, Marin, etc. Did the car come with any OBDII adapters or interface cables? You...

Let me put it this way...if the downpipe didn't make a difference, tuners wouldn't be making separate maps for stage 1 and stage 2 with different timing and boost targets. They don't make different maps for intakes, charge pipes, catbacks, etc., but they DO make different maps for stock vs...

There are a couple threads like this already, you'll find a bunch of pics in there as well: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/has-anyone-powder-coat-or-painted-their-stock-wheels.9743/ https://www.supramkv.com/threads/painting-the-stock-rims.2831/

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/bimmercode-user-guide.6429/

I see $2.5k?

Typically they just have an on-below/off-above hysteresis to the charging circuit, so it cuts power to the battery when it exceeds say 4.1V and <0.03C, and then re-applies power when it drops below 4V, that will keep it between about 70-80% capacity. It depends on the individual circuit though...

No, you can run up to E50 with just a flex fuel kit and flash tune. You don't even need the flex fuel kit if you just want E50 or regular pump, but it will let you blend them and switch on the fly without issue, which simplifies things.

I mean I'm not a "cellphone battery expert", but I am an electrical engineer who designs and builds power systems for remote equipment, including satellites, most of which use lithium ion batteries and charging systems very similar to what you would find in a cell phone. I'm not saying there's...

A) Not 700 whp B) A single dyno means nothing. Let me know how it's doing after 20k miles of hard driving.

No modern phone is dumb enough to just dump power into the battery constantly. They'll stop charging the battery when it's full, it's not going to damage the battery by plugging it in more than necessary.

The Z is going to need all of that plus a full engine build to get to that power level reliably, easily double the cost.