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There are literally no specs on that site so who knows.

But yes you did... You keep asking for advice/input. Then people give you input and you argue. Good luck buddy.

Looks like your hood isn't closed all the way. There is a gap on the side too. This is exactly what mine looks like if both latches don't connect correctly. You basically have to drop the hood from a foot or so for it to close correctly.

Like I stated in your other thread. Not normal. I've done 5 track days with a Pure turbo before changing the oil with zero oil consumption.

They are not. OEM part numbers and other options for rotors are here: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/a90-supra-brake-pads-rotors-fluid.16899/

I’m confused. You stated you have saved up $60k to buy a new Supra but then complain about 7% interest rates in the same post?

I use the BG racing kit: https://www.bg-racing.co.uk/b-g-racing-string-lines-kit Plus some slip plates

Yea, not a GR.

I used Motorsport Techniques in Hayward for over a decade when I lived in the Bay Area. Good guys. https://www.e-motorsport.com/

No, just make sure your heights are equal side to side. Corner balancing, IMHO, is a waste of time and money unless you are competing for every fraction of a second.

3.8 gallons What's even more fun is to see it slosh side to side on track:

Ironically it's WAYYYYY easier to align the car with the SPL arms, especially the rear toe arms.

@Mkva90 Where are you in California?

lol $1500 and two weeks. I do these in my garage and it takes under an hour. Like others have said, find a local performance shop.

Some photos from my last event:

If it’s the correct/original ROM for the car, then it should. The CVN needs to match their database.

I just had mine replaced through Geico Insurance. Used safelight. I requested OEM BMW glass, there are two versions, one with the coating for the HUD and one without. I have a HUD so they gave me the coated version. They also recalibrated the camera. We had to drive around for about 5 minutes...

Yea that is the iphone catalyst app

Yea, fair. I probably wouldn't run it without upgrading the front bushings. I'd also be interested in what happens when a wheel lifts in the air and back down, which is common on a track where you turn the steering wheel and not just going straight.

That might be why I feel I don't need the trans tune now that I have the ECU tuned. Those things get removed. I still might tune the trans. I am noticing sometimes in certain corners/power application that the car doesn't shift fart or shift as aggressive. I am thinking it might be traction...