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Don't bother looking at it while driving, it won't make any sense. Just look at it in a log after a pull. Plenty of examples in this thread too. Only things worth having on the gage are boost, afr, trims, rpm, etc. If you want any wastegate stuff on the gage, WGDC would make more sense since...

Yep I misunderstood. Your gage FF is the actual parameter being fed thru the JB4 EWG connection. FF(wg adaption) under user adjustment is a Gain variable for the FF parameter shown in your gage. So related, but not the same. 50 on your gage means it is inactive, which is almost always is when...

FF saves per map, so you need to be in the intended map already before saving the FF value.

Nice, feel free to post a log. Remember that catless cars need duty bias and FF adjustments to have proper boost control. this is a good baseline: FF = 35 duty_15 duty_20 duty_25 duty_30 duty_35 duty_40 duty_45 duty_50 duty_55 duty_60 duty_65 duty_70 30 30 30 32 34 34 34 46 64 64 66 68

Yes, they are global but FF is saved per map. This map 6 is closer to Map 2 than Map 1. If you go E25, I would stick with Map 6 and start kicking up the boost targets for 4500+. Putting ethanol in makes it harder to run a lot of boost down low (high trims), but lets you run more boost up top...

duty_15 duty_20 duty_25 duty_30 duty_35 duty_40 duty_45 duty_50 duty_55 duty_60 duty_65 duty_70 48 48 48 48 48 48 50 54 58 56 60 60 Pretty good already, just a little fine tuning.

Just drop FF to 45

Try this Map 6 (preferably on new V24 firmware) FF =45 map6_15 map6_20 map6_25 map6_30 map6_35 map6_40 map6_45 map6_50 map6_55 map6_60 map6_65 map6_70 1.4 1.9 2.4 2.9 3.4 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.4 2.9 2.4 2...

I don't expect to make any money on this car, but it helps not to lose much. Genuinely makes the ownership experience better when there is less pressure to sell. Anyone can look at the values of comparables and see that low-volume MT sports cars always do well long term. Maybe a good example is...

It's fine, just go easy on the engine for the break-in and not keep it at one RPM (ie highway driving) I only did 800 for break-in anyway and was tuned by 1000, and oil change at 2500. Never had an issue.

~280 or 2 hrs work iirc.

Not to derail this thread, but I am tuned for the downpipe. Kenji is a good combination with a JB4 that can tune for the downpipe but not clear CEL.

This is the post I was referencing: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dyno-results-hks-drop-in-filter.4882/

Please include a datalog, likely Map 3 is too much unless you are on E-blend, so post up a Map 2 log

It is improving, but shoot me a PM with a log at FF 30 and we can proceed from there to not blow up this thread. MTs can take a few revisions. No, it can be fixed with the new v24 firmware, but still takes more time to dial in than an AT car. I have done over a dozen MT cars by now.

Yes to both! Adjust duty bias if it is only throttle closures in a specific RPM area, or FF if the whole RPM curve has throttle closures. Different downpipes need different FF/duty curves, as the one standard on the JB4 is for stock dp.

Function werk/Kenji downpipe has cat simulator/O2 spacer built in. No CEL ever ~3k miles

not in the immediate future, I'd be more likely to get a Dragy first tbh. Intake is completely stock. Car is just catless and JB4.

I'm giving it a try. Had seen some data that drop ins are good for 5-10whp, and I want to keep the lower IATs of stock airbox.

Femto + flash is the ideal way to tune. If shipping your DME to Finland is not an option for you (or your engine warranty is important to you), then JB4 is the best option by far for piggybacks.