I think it's best to get it done first. Saves you, $200, $400, $800, whatever. No need to do it twice if you don't need to, IMO. Only reason it made sense if you'd already done it, or were factory unlocked unlocked (very early 2020s).
This is.. not entirely accurate. The part is even referred to as 'scrape guard' in the technical manual, but not completely inaccurate either. They absolutely will redirect air, but they are quite flimsy.
Likely not. The Verus splitter deletes these, and as you can see from the OpenFoam...
It's a [edit] basically a scrape guard. It's there to give you some visceral feedback on your hitting the ground and protect the under panels. It's not necessary by any stretch. though it will move the air around a bit.
There is some weird combination where if you aren't holding the brake pedal firm enough or slightly release the brake and you accidentally flinch and double press the ignition, the crank can momentarily crack a half turn in the wrong direction causing the brake booster to fail.
The fix is in...
I'm just fucking around, obviously.
The fact is, there have been a small handful of folks that have done this conversion. Some of them think it's worth it, and some of them don't. All of them are extremely high HP applications, 900-1100+hp and you know their names.
The gains from the 6 port...
Nothing has changed, everyone should do this update. Especially, if you're considering a clone or an overseas unlock. I don't believe the bricking issue is widespread - that said, you'll be in a tight spot if it happens.
I did worry about it, got mine done, and everything was fine. Took a few...
Interesting, point. The EOS and CSF manifolds are very different, I haven’t handled any of the others, but I assume they’re all slightly different.
Did you clear the code and it came back?
If so, maybe the second O2 sensor isn’t seated or connected properly?
If you didn’t clear the code, clear the code :)