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In general I tend to err on the side of being cautious, but I also like having data. I would advise people who are making a habit of tracking the car to have their oil tested, not just because you may be able to run longer intervals, but you'll also get a baseline for your engine's metal wear...

I had my oil tested after 3 track days and it was perfectly fine FWIW. I run Redline 0W-40 which is safe (although certainly not ideal) up to 300F.

Probably. But I would just replace the wire, easy job and cheap.

I really enjoy people being confidently wrong.

Why would you do that when you can already build the auto for >1k whp and it will be faster than you shifting manually?

For ~$11k all in, I'd sell my auto Supra and just buy a factory manual. Is there another purpose for this swap?

The RE71RS is pretty capable in the rain. I've driven on track with them in the wet, no issues if you are using your head. Leave traction control on in heavy rain, the Supra TC is quite good in the wet.

I used the Racing Brake kit with the stainless pistons and had zero issues with it. The boots fit correctly. For capping the lines, I covered them with a small rubber cap like what you would use to cap a vacuum line, then zip tied it tighter around the line and then zip tied the line facing...

Here are my Garmin logs. Razorlab and a couple others here are friends with me on Catalyst and can confirm my times too.

Looking at my times, I think you looked at the time listed immediately in the video, and not at the end of the lap (when it updates). The correct times should be listed above the videos and then at the very end. Sorry, not intentionally making it difficult, that's just how Garmin exports the...

I got this one. Added you.

I just checked my app and I don't have any invites. Strange. Here's my profile with the QR code, and the link should be: https://catalyst.automotive.garmin.com/profile?guid=5d24d7c7-09b0-4fff-9968-ed1c5325a6d0 If that's not working just drop your profile info and I'll add you. No worries.

Okay. 2022 Supra Various 275/35/18 tires, mostly Yokohama A052 and RE71RS. Stock power except Gingerman, CMP, NCM, where it was tuned with a Wagner intake manifold + catted AA downpipe. Verus camber plates, Eibach sway bars, SPL end links, Titan7 18x10.7" wheels, CSG C21/C11 pads, GiroDisc 2...

Not sure I understand your response. All of the videos are on my YouTube and it's the only thing I post on that channel. If you want me to reply here with 10+ videos in a post, I'll do that, I just didn't want to shit up the thread since that takes up a lot of space.

Would you please add my times? All of my times are documented in my YouTube channel and most are on my Garmin profile as well. (83) Ben Bulthuis - YouTube Lime Rock Park: 1:00.372 Gingerman Raceway: 1:39.79 Carolina Motorsports Park: 1:40.69 NCM Motorsports Park: 2:19.48 MidOhio Sports Car...

Yep BM3 app freezes while logging for me more often than not. Even with airplane mode on, everything disabled except the WiFi connection, and using their adapter. Very frustrating.

Do you have a picture? Is it different than the fronts? The fronts I just removed with a small pick.

Saw this finally dropped: Anyone already using this or planning on it? Real bummer that I'd have to send my ECU back to FEMTO for a second time, and I haven't been totally thrilled with my BM3 experience so far, so that's a lot of additional money to throw down for the second unlock + REV2...

Unfortunately I need the boost values specifically. Gridlife's Street GT class rule for maximum boost is written as Factory turbocharged cars must remain within 20% of factory boost settings. Drivers are expected to be able to prove compliance (ie. video, data logs, etc.) This means that...

Is it possible to confirm what target boost / actual boost is for the EU Final Edition? Is this documented anywhere official, or has anyone dyno'd the car and logged it?