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I sold the car, so didn’t need

Still available. I ran MCS but I believe any coilovers or the hks adjustable springs would work. I didn’t run spacers.

Yes they are

New set of GLOC R16 front pads (Sold)

Set of four great condition Apex SM10 18x11 with 295/35 A052s with ~40% left $1250 Portland, OR willing to ship

3.0

I am real

thanks missed that one, I updated the original post

18x11 Apex SM10 bronze +40 with ~30% A052s - $1500 BNIB G-LOC R16 front pads - $220 New Whiteline front sway bar links - $100 AA catted downpipe - $sold BNIB Verkline front control arms - $Sold BNIB Driver side PCI seat mount w/sliders-$sold MCS 2wr 550/500 $Sold Fortune Auto signal cancellers...

I guess I’m wrong then. Back to regularly scheduled track chat

The hump is molded into the bushing. The whole thing just gets compressed. There’s no extra space.

Either Whiteline has some clever reason for making this particular bushing thicker than usual, going against basically every poly bushed sway bar on the market - including themselves in other applications. Or they just lazily measured the OEM bushing and copied its size without thinking about...

There’s no where else for the bushing to go, it’s sandwiched between a flat plate and the bracket? Did you leave the plate out?

Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet. Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself. If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.

I remember mine came without threads too. Ideally you’d have a bottoming tap as the holes are pretty shallow. I don’t know if I verified the part numbers, but the camber did change in the right direction.

There is a fundamental difference between the bound rubber bushing which acts light rotating spring versus the stiction provided by lubricated polyurethane. You have no consistent return to center. Urethane is not an effective spring material, it does not have the compressibility or hysteresis...

It seemed to fit the bar diameter correctly. I trimmed the bushings down to flush and still used it. Maybe they sent the wrong ones or poor quality control? I remember double checking the part number to make sure I got the right one. For anyone installing, the bar should turn in the bushing by...

That’s me lightly compressing the bushing with a clamp. Waaay too much material. It would bind so bad if you just tighten that down.

And it comes with bushings that are way too thick and have to be cut down. I’m 1 for 3 on whiteline sway bars that actually fit. I realize it’s a really complicated part to engineer ?

I’ll admit I’m hard on things, but I’m not a big fan of the RE71RS. The drop in pace in lap one is substantial, even compared to a052 or CR-S. They do slow with heat cycles too, but it’s not dramatic. If you pair fresh and ~10 heat cycled tires on each axle it’s quite noticeable. I see similar...