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I guess I’m wrong then. Back to regularly scheduled track chat

The hump is molded into the bushing. The whole thing just gets compressed. There’s no extra space.

Either Whiteline has some clever reason for making this particular bushing thicker than usual, going against basically every poly bushed sway bar on the market - including themselves in other applications. Or they just lazily measured the OEM bushing and copied its size without thinking about...

There’s no where else for the bushing to go, it’s sandwiched between a flat plate and the bracket? Did you leave the plate out?

Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet. Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself. If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.

I remember mine came without threads too. Ideally you’d have a bottoming tap as the holes are pretty shallow. I don’t know if I verified the part numbers, but the camber did change in the right direction.

There is a fundamental difference between the bound rubber bushing which acts light rotating spring versus the stiction provided by lubricated polyurethane. You have no consistent return to center. Urethane is not an effective spring material, it does not have the compressibility or hysteresis...

It seemed to fit the bar diameter correctly. I trimmed the bushings down to flush and still used it. Maybe they sent the wrong ones or poor quality control? I remember double checking the part number to make sure I got the right one. For anyone installing, the bar should turn in the bushing by...

That’s me lightly compressing the bushing with a clamp. Waaay too much material. It would bind so bad if you just tighten that down.

And it comes with bushings that are way too thick and have to be cut down. I’m 1 for 3 on whiteline sway bars that actually fit. I realize it’s a really complicated part to engineer 🙄

I’ll admit I’m hard on things, but I’m not a big fan of the RE71RS. The drop in pace in lap one is substantial, even compared to a052 or CR-S. They do slow with heat cycles too, but it’s not dramatic. If you pair fresh and ~10 heat cycled tires on each axle it’s quite noticeable. I see similar...

If it’s in this thread I may have missed it. I saw your positive review of the club racer pads somewhere in here…

I can scuff the rotors and rebed. Considering it appeared midday on a track day and wasn’t improving with heavy braking, I’m unimpressed. Sounds like this is common as I found some similar threads about it. Pad options are still pretty limited for OEM calipers. I will try g-loc or cobalts next.

Anyone dealt with pad transfer on CSG pads? I threw on C21 and they were great until 4th session I found a lot of pulsation once brakes were hot. I’ve actually not had pad transfer issues on any other pads before, or at least not that wouldn’t clear quickly with some additional hard stops.

If you ship via DHL can you use a third party to insure, or will that cause an issue? eg https://www.shipsurance.com/

I’ve also been tempted to switch to a C8, but I’m thrown by how big it feels. Otherwise theyve made 143k wish.com Ferraris and I can’t imagine with that volume they hold their value particularly well Pick what you like more

I had a spinal fusion and immediately went bought a hybrid Camry (softest riding thing I could find). Then found myself in a Lotus Elise 3 months later ;) Hopefully you have a similar result and can get back at it. Glws

For those with vorshlag plates, how much camber did those get you? Wondering if I’ll need to order arms too. I’d like to have 3-4* range to play with.

I’d send an email or call both to get details, but yes generally the compression and droop travel is not optimized for bc and similar offerings. I believe shaftworks does a bit more homework to get that right.

I ran these (not on a Supra). No issues and they worked fine, but it’s all in the valving setup which didn’t work quite as I wanted. You’ll also likely be stuck with whatever incorrectly sized shocks BC specs. I’d probably look at shaftworks for a budget 1-way.