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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

razorlab

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Speaking of CR-S.. I ran them in the rain last week for the first time and they were feckin worthless. I don't think this is a major surprise, but I expected a little more. The car was totally undriveable. Packed it in after 2 miserable sessions.
Yea, anything less than full tread, don't even try. I've shared this before but I drove 2 hours to the track in a monsoon with brand new full thread CRS and I thought I was going into the barriers multiple times. Whiskey worked wonders upon arrival.
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FLtrackdays

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Speaking of CR-S.. I ran them in the rain last week for the first time and they were feckin worthless. I don't think this is a major surprise, but I expected a little more. The car was totally undriveable. Packed it in after 2 miserable sessions.
You’re right. It doesn’t take much to induce a slide, regain & repeat. Daily rains down here 6-9 months of the year, south of Tampa. So we just go out and practice car control. Most peeps have rain tires as well. If it doesn’t rain much in your area, it wouldn’t make sense.

The nice thing, it’s usually short bursts and it’s over. So you have a nice skid pad areas where you can induce a slide. This last time we were fully off line and hunting any dryer spots we could find. Oddly it rained all day.
 
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sams2k

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Ah ok, my mistake there. So info for EU bois for the future :)

Other info: Speed Engineering (german) will be releasing their canards set soon (~march), with TUV certificate.

Screenshot_20231224_220828_YouTube.jpg
have you seen any updates on the canards?
 

razorlab

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Whiteline bushings are bad, they looked like they didn't fit so I cut them down before actually checking if they fit and worked correctly. Whiteline is trash because of my user error.
So I finally installed the whiteline bar today. The bushings were the same as yours. I tightened everything down with ZERO issues. I even checked to see if the bar could freely rotate still. Rotated with ZERO binding and hardly any force.

There is nothing wrong with these bushings. User error.
 

JRTritsch

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So I finally installed the whiteline bar today. The bushings were the same as yours. I tightened everything down with ZERO issues. I even checked to see if the bar could freely rotate still. Rotated with ZERO binding and hardly any force.

There is nothing wrong with these bushings. User error.
Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet.

Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself.

If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.
 

razorlab

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Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet.

Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself.

If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.
It’s okay, it fills the hump in the oem bracket, which isn’t flat. The bar rotates fine with no binding. Everything works as intended. I’m sorry you thought you might have been smarter than it. Every concern you had is not valid.

“learn to be quiet”. No, I’m not quiet literally because of people like you. Others might see your posts and do the same asinine modifications that aren’t necessary.
 

JRTritsch

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There’s no where else for the bushing to go, it’s sandwiched between a flat plate and the bracket?

Did you leave the plate out?
 

razorlab

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There’s no where else for the bushing to go, it’s sandwiched between a flat plate and the bracket?

Did you leave the plate out?
Plates are in. Look at the bracket again. It has a hump. The bushing fills it when compressed. Just like OEM. The OEM bushing sticks out past the top when not installed just like the whiteline.

In the end, the bar rotates freely with no modifications. Your concerns are not concerns.
 

racebuild

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Don’t put words I my mouth. If you fail to comprehend something this simple and obvious, learn to be quiet.

Some of us aren’t just Internet forum blowhards like yourself.

If you look at that bushing and think that’s ok, by all means feel free to do as you think is right.
If you’re worried about sway bar stiction, you’re probably not gonna be a fan of high pressure dampers.

The bushing is urethane which is a poor material for a bushing, but on a sway bar it’ll be fine and will conform to shape.
 

JRTritsch

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Either Whiteline has some clever reason for making this particular bushing thicker than usual, going against basically every poly bushed sway bar on the market - including themselves in other applications. Or they just lazily measured the OEM bushing and copied its size without thinking about it. I’ll take my guess.

The hump is not enough to swallow like 1/3” of bushing. It’s over-compressed which was the whole point. It will likely bind over time as the lube gets pressed out. There is a lot of bushing material there, maybe it deforms enough to be ok, but it shouldn’t have to.

I’m not sure why this is hard to accept; the function of a sway bar bushing is to act as a bushing, not provide damping or friction. When they get really bound up the bar breaks or the mounts break. It’s not that uncommon.
 

JRTritsch

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Plates are in. Look at the bracket again. It has a hump. The bushing fills it when compressed. Just like OEM. The OEM bushing sticks out past the top when not installed just like the whiteline.
1710051299089.webp

1710051328703.webp

The hump is molded into the bushing. The whole thing just gets compressed. There’s no extra space.
 

Evolution

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I have had my whiteline sway in for over 2 years and 10k miles. Had my front suspension all apart a little over a month ago and the bushings were still fine and the bar rotated as it should. No issues here.

edit - just wanted to add, when I added poly bushings to my jeeps sway and motor mounts, they required to be compressed the same amount. Different brand too.
 

JRTritsch

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I guess I’m wrong then. Back to regularly scheduled track chat
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