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DVMKV

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I've talked to 3 different shops and this was the first real good vibe/feeling I got from an installer that really knows his stuff and he talked me into the DSP instead of line converter. I went back to ask him a few more questions and if there was a way to shave a little off the install charges because my other quotes were quite a bit less, I also said I don't mind paying for quality and expertise but don't want to pay double either. His response was solid, we agreed I'll buy the K2 conversion kit to simplify the door speaker install and that shaved an hour ($160 an hour) the amp and DSP install he said will be installed hidden but accessible without taking the car apart. He also said he quoted me highest possible so no surprises but should be well under if no surprises and I will only be billed actual time no fluff. He seems like a straight forward guy so I'm going to have him do it. I don't mind paying to have it done right I've seen some hack jobs and he said my other quotes could be from people not familiar with the car and could go up by time it's done or they could do a shit job for their quote. Which he's right,.

Thanks for the advice, I feel good about it now!
From the sound of it, I think you found a good installer. Hoping he comes through for you and saves you a bit extra! DSP is definitely the way to go, you'll lose a good bit of quality with a line converter. Good luck!
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Sam B

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My shop was 180 an hour. And they specialize in DSP tuning. That’s 900 right off the bay. I don’t feel your cost is out of line at all. Mine was ALOT more than that
 

Teleguy11

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IMHO, You get what you pay for.
Ratings and online reviews are our friend.
Pay attention. It helps.

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BimmerGuy

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Back in the day when I did (paid) for stuff like this, I'd get a quote, not an hourly rate. But everyone likes to work differently. if the guy has a good rep and you feel comfortable with it, then I'd fall back on the old 'you get what you pay for' rationalization.

I too am curious to see pics of the install when it's done, and your impressions of the end result.
 
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Raiderzfan

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Make sure u get a helix sdmi25 to get signal
Please enlighten me, will the installer not be able to tap into the factory high levels?

Here's what is going in:
Focal T2 4" for the doors
Focal 6.5 components replacing the 8"s (replacing the rears and the 8s)
JL Audio VX800/8 DSP each speaker individually
RF T1000 powering 2 JL 12TW3s
 

Nehpets808

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Please enlighten me, will the installer not be able to tap into the factory high levels?

Here's what is going in:
Focal T2 4" for the doors
Focal 6.5 components replacing the 8"s (replacing the rears and the 8s)
JL Audio VX800/8 DSP each speaker individually
RF T1000 powering 2 JL 12TW3s
The audio for the premium JBL system is supplied through the MOST interface. You will need a digital interface to accept the MOST signal and output an optical signal to go in to the JL amp.
 

Sam B

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Yepper. What he said. It’s a crucial first step. Get signal locked down first. The helix piece of the best by a mile.
 
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Raiderzfan

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damn system costing me more and more at every turn! So I assume this Helix is plug and play with the existing harness? I just don't know much about it I'm an old school car audio guy so even the DSP is new to me.
 

Nehpets808

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damn system costing me more and more at every turn! So I assume this Helix is plug and play with the existing harness? I just don't know much about it I'm an old school car audio guy so even the DSP is new to me.
The input for the stock amp is provided by a MOST fiber connection. JL amps do not have a MOST connection so you need an interface that accepts that connection then converts it to an optical output that the JL amp accepts.

You will also need an aftermarket wire harness that will plug in to the OEM harness and the JL outputs.

Technic makes a nice one:
https://technicpnp.com/product/toyo...hardware-kit-for-most-converter-applications/

Or you could look at a Mobridge K2 that is plug and play.
https://mobridge.us/product/mobridge-most-amplifier-bmw-audi-mercedes/
 
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Raiderzfan

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The input for the stock amp is provided by a MOST fiber connection. JL amps do not have a MOST connection so you need an interface that accepts that connection then converts it to an optical output that the JL amp accepts.

You will also need an aftermarket wire harness that will plug in to the OEM harness and the JL outputs.

Technic makes a nice one:
https://technicpnp.com/product/toyo...hardware-kit-for-most-converter-applications/

Or you could look at a Mobridge K2 that is plug and play.
https://mobridge.us/product/mobridge-most-amplifier-bmw-audi-mercedes/
My installer said they are not by-passing the factory amp going to use the high level outs with a step down converter into the JBL 8ch then there is a RCA pass-through from the JBL to the mono amp. Sound right?
 

Nehpets808

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My installer said they are not by-passing the factory amp going to use the high level outs with a step down converter into the JBL 8ch then there is a RCA pass-through from the JBL to the mono amp. Sound right?
Sorry I'm not sure how the process works with keeping the factory amp installed. I was always under the impression you want the cleanest signal possible going in to your aftermarket amp. Sounds like the installer is going to take the digital signal after it has been processed (now analog) for inputs to the JL amp. TBH if it was my car I would keep the signal digital the whole way to the JL amp, and remove the OEM amp. I just don't see a reason to keep the OEM amp unless you are just adding a sub amp only.
 

Sam B

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I’m not sure the VXI amps even have high level inputs. I definitely recommend changing the amp out for an interface for digital
 
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Raiderzfan

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I’m not sure the VXI amps even have high level inputs. I definitely recommend changing the amp out for an interface for digital
analog inputs
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