kungfujedis
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Greg
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2023
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 162
- Reaction score
- 217
- Location
- Washington DC
- Car(s)
- 2024 Supra MT, 2013 WRX
- Thread starter
- #1
I'm trying to diagnose a left front suspension clack that started after installing Verus camber plates on an otherwise stock suspension (OEM struts and springs, ~4,000 miles). It does have a stud conversion and spacers. I also removed the bumper about a week before to repair the ambient air temperature sensor wire that a mouse chewed through. There is some possibility the noise is related to that, but I'm reasonably sure I didn't hear it until the camber plates went in. I've also since removed the bumper and fender liners and tested with them off.
I had a 2024 Supra that I put the same camber plates on without this issue. (I didn't reuse them, these are new). I now have a 2026. That said, I am a just a youtube mechanic and could have done any number of things wrong, even if I got it right before.
Symptoms:
Sharp clack (not a creak or rattle):
Seems to only be from the left front.
If I drive the right and left side through bumps/holes separately, I only hear it when the left side goes through.
If both sides go over a bump/hole i hear it from the left side (pretty sure).
Not reproducible by turning the steering wheel.
Cannot reproduce by bouncing the car or jacking the suspension through its travel.
Seems to occur during compression, although I'm not 100% certain.
Cannot find any witness marks (which doesn't mean they don't exist)
Installation:
Verus camber plates installed on both sides at the same time.
Struts remained attached to the knuckles during installation.
I used a jack to compress the springs on the car, and death sticks to keep them compressed while I lowered the strut.
The only installation difference I can think of is that when i first compressed the left/driver side with the jack, I forgot to disconnect the swaybar endlink. I lowered it and disconnected it and continued.
I used a pass through wrench on the top nut to keep the shaft from spinning when torquing. It still moved around a little bit.
Things I've tried:
Removed the endlinks on both sides and tested with the sway bar disconnected.
Dropped the strut shaft and reseated the spring and bearing multiple times. (Getting that bearing to seat just right is a huge PITA. I guess its possible it is still not sitting correctly, but I have carefully compared it to the other side and it looks the same). I used a endoscope to try to examine the backside of the bearing. Its hard to see, but both sides seem to be seated the same. I used some washers to try to measure the gap between the bearing and the plate, seems pretty close.
Replaced the bearing.
Tested with the plates at max and minimum camber.
Replaced the entire Verus camber plate assembly with a new one.
Added some torque to the knuckle (even though i never loosed or disconnected). It was tight, I just gave it a tad more to make sure.
Took it to a shop for inspection. They couldn't find the source of the problem. I don't think they adjusted or reseated anything. As far as I know they just inspected and tried to tighten the top nut and the endlinks.
Top nut and camber plate bolts are tight and marked with paint; no movement.
No play at 12/6 or 3/9.
No detectable vertical movement at the strut shaft.
Brake line and other brackets checked.
The bump stop seemed looser on the problem side, so I put a zip tie on it to give it some more tension and keep it at the top of the strut.
Got an alignment.
Things I haven't tried yet:
Adjust the steering rack preload (tool ordered)
Coil silencers (doesn't seem like this could be it with stock springs)
Disconnect the ride height sensor
Remove the camber plate and put the stock mount back (ugh).
I had a 2024 Supra that I put the same camber plates on without this issue. (I didn't reuse them, these are new). I now have a 2026. That said, I am a just a youtube mechanic and could have done any number of things wrong, even if I got it right before.
Symptoms:
Sharp clack (not a creak or rattle):
Seems to only be from the left front.
If I drive the right and left side through bumps/holes separately, I only hear it when the left side goes through.
If both sides go over a bump/hole i hear it from the left side (pretty sure).
Not reproducible by turning the steering wheel.
Cannot reproduce by bouncing the car or jacking the suspension through its travel.
Seems to occur during compression, although I'm not 100% certain.
Cannot find any witness marks (which doesn't mean they don't exist)
Installation:
Verus camber plates installed on both sides at the same time.
Struts remained attached to the knuckles during installation.
I used a jack to compress the springs on the car, and death sticks to keep them compressed while I lowered the strut.
The only installation difference I can think of is that when i first compressed the left/driver side with the jack, I forgot to disconnect the swaybar endlink. I lowered it and disconnected it and continued.
I used a pass through wrench on the top nut to keep the shaft from spinning when torquing. It still moved around a little bit.
Things I've tried:
Removed the endlinks on both sides and tested with the sway bar disconnected.
Dropped the strut shaft and reseated the spring and bearing multiple times. (Getting that bearing to seat just right is a huge PITA. I guess its possible it is still not sitting correctly, but I have carefully compared it to the other side and it looks the same). I used a endoscope to try to examine the backside of the bearing. Its hard to see, but both sides seem to be seated the same. I used some washers to try to measure the gap between the bearing and the plate, seems pretty close.
Replaced the bearing.
Tested with the plates at max and minimum camber.
Replaced the entire Verus camber plate assembly with a new one.
Added some torque to the knuckle (even though i never loosed or disconnected). It was tight, I just gave it a tad more to make sure.
Took it to a shop for inspection. They couldn't find the source of the problem. I don't think they adjusted or reseated anything. As far as I know they just inspected and tried to tighten the top nut and the endlinks.
Top nut and camber plate bolts are tight and marked with paint; no movement.
No play at 12/6 or 3/9.
No detectable vertical movement at the strut shaft.
Brake line and other brackets checked.
The bump stop seemed looser on the problem side, so I put a zip tie on it to give it some more tension and keep it at the top of the strut.
Got an alignment.
Things I haven't tried yet:
Adjust the steering rack preload (tool ordered)
Coil silencers (doesn't seem like this could be it with stock springs)
Disconnect the ride height sensor
Remove the camber plate and put the stock mount back (ugh).
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