OEM A91 Spoiler...adhesive only/without the bolts?

[lrk322]

I was able to pick up an OEM A91 spoiler at a great price. I'm hesitant to drill the holes to install. If I grind these bolts down, is there a good way to attach it with 3m adhesive tape or similar? I know that I could just get a knock off, but I think the fit will be better with the original spoiler.

There is a sort of uneven dip on the underside that I'm not sure how I will fill in to attach adhesive strips. I'm not able to get the original foam washers for the bolts from Toyota, so just looking into options/ideas.

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[razorlab]

I ran a hatch lip spoiler for a whole season of tracking my Supra with just 3M adhesive. 130mph+ lap after lap for over 20 events.

 

[Timmy_Jones]

Adhesive only here in 100+ temps down to -20 at varying speeds. 3M automotive grade is amazing. You’ll be fine as long as you have the contact patch for it.

 

[lrk322]

Thanks for this info. I'm trying to think of the best way to create a smooth contact area on the concave spoiler underside. Maybe it could be built up with bondo or similar?

Adhesive only here in 100+ temps down to -20 at varying speeds. 3M automotive grade is amazing. You’ll be fine as long as you have the contact patch for it.

 

[lucky phil]

Thanks for this info. I'm trying to think of the best way to create a smooth contact area on the concave spoiler underside. Maybe it could be built up with bondo or similar?

There are other alternatives to #M tape which is obviously a great product. One disadvantage it has is you have to have the part perfectly positioned before you spply it to the body. I have used this in the past to attach lip wings etc.It's a quality product designed for this purpose and works well. You can also adjust the positioning a little after you place it on the car but you need a way to keep it in place while it cures such as aluminium tape which works well.
Teroson MS 9220 power adhesive. Used for motor body construction. Have a look at the TDS.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/pl/en/product/flexible-sealants/teroson_ms_92201.html

 

[ALAN12186]

I HAVE THE OEM A91 SPOILER. I CUT THE BOLTS AND USED 3M TAPE ROCK SOLID!

 

[lrk322]

There are other alternatives to #M tape which is obviously a great product. One disadvantage it has is you have to have the part perfectly positioned before you spply it to the body. I have used this in the past to attach lip wings etc.It's a quality product designed for this purpose and works well. You can also adjust the positioning a little after you place it on the car but you need a way to keep it in place while it cures such as aluminium tape which works well.
Teroson MS 9220 power adhesive. Used for motor body construction. Have a look at the TDS.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/pl/en/product/flexible-sealants/teroson_ms_92201.html

Thanks for this info. Have you ever had to remove one of the parts later? How was the removal process? I just wouldn’t want it to damage or peel the paint.

 

[lrk322]

I HAVE THE OEM A91 SPOILER. I CUT THE BOLTS AND USED 3M TAPE ROCK SOLID!

This is great to hear! Did you just cover the entire bottom portion in 3m tape? Did you have to double up the tape in spots to account for the concave spots under the spoiler?

 

[lucky phil]

Thanks for this info. Have you ever had to remove one of the parts later? How was the removal process? I just wouldn’t want it to damage or peel the paint.

I would consider this a permanent adhesive but I guess you can get it off but the adhesive removal method may damage the paint not the adhesive. If you use 3M tape to apply a spoiler for example even if you can remove the spoiler and tape without paint damage then what you will be left with is almost certainly a section of faded paint where the spoiler was unless the car is white. I consider any application of a spoiler a permanent fixture. Make the choice and live with it.
I used this adhesive on a Focus RS wing which I had to remove and refit not because the adhesive failed but because the spoiler manufacturer had given the inside of the spoiler a thin coat of matt black paint. This paint layer detached from the spoiler. I managed to remover the spoiler and the adhesive which was still on the car ( all of it) was removed without paint damage. I then removed the rubbish interior paint from the spoiler and re glued it and it worked perfectly this time. It's a good warning. Any carbon or glass product that has a painted inner surface it's a good idea to remove that paint in the areas to be bonded or where tape will be used. This paint isn't of great quality usually and it's the second time I've seen this type of failure I experienced. The other was on a motorcycle carbon frame covers. Beautiful well made carbon pieces but the inside paint was rubbish and isn't up to holding adhesive or tape.

Phil

 

[ALAN12186]

This is great to hear! Did you just cover the entire bottom portion in 3m tape? Did you have to double up the tape in spots to account for the concave spots under the spoiler?

I used the wider 3m tape and just did one center strip. I cut pieces the matched the shape of the ends to insure they didn't lift. Make sure you clean and prep both surfaces from proper adhesion. I also used a heat gun to heat the tape once it was in place and secured with painters tape overnight.

 

[razorlab]

I would consider this a permanent adhesive but I guess you can get it off but the adhesive removal method may damage the paint not the adhesive.

Or just use the right tools. 3M adhesive remover + one of these makes quick work and zero paint damage:

 

[lrk322]

I would consider this a permanent adhesive but I guess you can get it off but the adhesive removal method may damage the paint not the adhesive. If you use 3M tape to apply a spoiler for example even if you can remove the spoiler and tape without paint damage then what you will be left with is almost certainly a section of faded paint where the spoiler was unless the car is white. I consider any application of a spoiler a permanent fixture. Make the choice and live with it.
I used this adhesive on a Focus RS wing which I had to remove and refit not because the adhesive failed but because the spoiler manufacturer had given the inside of the spoiler a thin coat of matt black paint. This paint layer detached from the spoiler. I managed to remover the spoiler and the adhesive which was still on the car ( all of it) was removed without paint damage. I then removed the rubbish interior paint from the spoiler and re glued it and it worked perfectly this time. It's a good warning. Any carbon or glass product that has a painted inner surface it's a good idea to remove that paint in the areas to be bonded or where tape will be used. This paint isn't of great quality usually and it's the second time I've seen this type of failure I experienced. The other was on a motorcycle carbon frame covers. Beautiful well made carbon pieces but the inside paint was rubbish and isn't up to holding adhesive or tape.

Phil

Thanks for the input on this. I never even knew that was an option.

 

[lrk322]

I used the wider 3m tape and just did one center strip. I cut pieces the matched the shape of the ends to insure they didn't lift. Make sure you clean and prep both surfaces from proper adhesion. I also used a heat gun to heat the tape once it was in place and secured with painters tape overnight.

Thanks very much for this info! I was worried about drilling, very happy to know it isn’t needed.

 

[lrk322]

I used the wider 3m tape and just did one center strip. I cut pieces the matched the shape of the ends to insure they didn't lift. Make sure you clean and prep both surfaces from proper adhesion. I also used a heat gun to heat the tape once it was in place and secured with painters tape overnight.

Do you happen to remember if you were able to place tape on the unpainted wood-like underside? I am wondering it will stick there in the center.

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