Totaled or nah?

[Waferz]

looks totaled my man. glad to hear your ok. I would take the car to get an estimate at a reputable Toyota Collision center.

Why not just a reputable collision center in general? 1. It’s going to follow BMW repair procedures. 2. Sending a couple of body men to a short manufacturers class for a piece of paper does not mean you will get quality repairs.

Find a good shop, don’t worry about the piece of paper. Any good shop will 100% have all of the specs and information to repair your car readily available. The certification is easy to get and the courses that I have paid for and attended teach you very little. I’ve been to courses where my results were far better than the instructors. Sad.

Sorry to rant, it just doesn’t sit well with me when people say things like this with no knowledge of what actually happens in a shop. More often than not, the dealership will be one of, if not the only one with that Toyota certification. As we all know the dealership is one of the last places you should have your repairs (or any work outside of warranty work) done.

Getting your own estimate is a waste of time these days. Insurance won’t honor it either way. The shop you choose will have to go off of the insurance cos preliminary estimate and file supplements for any additional damages. You’re doing nothing more than wasting your time by bouncing shop to shop for an estimate when your repair is an insurance claim.

I would suggest that you talk with your own insurance company about repairing your car through them and having them sue the other company for the cost of repairs. This way it will not affect your premium. I work with these companies daily, and they drag their feet big time when the claim is not their own customer.

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[ec15]

Why not just a reputable collision center in general? 1. It’s going to follow BMW repair procedures. 2. Sending a couple of body men to a short manufacturers class for a piece of paper does not mean you will get quality repairs.

Find a good shop, don’t worry about the piece of paper. Any good shop will 100% have all of the specs and information to repair your car readily available. The certification is easy to get and the courses that I have paid for and attended teach you very little. I’ve been to courses where my results were far better than the instructors. Sad.

Sorry to rant, it just doesn’t sit well with me when people say things like this with no knowledge of what actually happens in a shop. More often than not, the dealership will be one of, if not the only one with that Toyota certification. As we all know the dealership is one of the last places you should have your repairs (or any work outside of warranty work) done.

Getting your own estimate is a waste of time these days. Insurance won’t honor it either way. The shop you choose will have to go off of the insurance cos preliminary estimate and file supplements for any additional damages. You’re doing nothing more than wasting your time by bouncing shop to shop for an estimate when your repair is an insurance claim.

I would suggest that you talk with your own insurance company about repairing your car through them and having them sue the other company for the cost of repairs. This way it will not affect your premium. I work with these companies daily, and they drag their feet big time when the claim is not their own customer.

Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about and how this industry works.
I don't think people even know what a total loss even means.

 

[gdi2290]

well it looks like BMW parts are very expensive. The estimate so far already hit 40k and thats just from a call they had with Toyota on the parts they would need. Ultimately it's up to my insurance to make the call if its a total loss

 

[Waferz]

well it looks like BMW parts are very expensive. The estimate so far already hit 40k and thats just from a call they had with Toyota on the parts they would need. Ultimately it's up to my insurance to make the call if its a total loss

A quarter panel, a bumper, a hatch, a tail light, exhaust, lower valance and possibly a rear body panel costing 40k? I don’t believe that at all, sorry. Toyota has some crazy list prices for these cars but not 40k in those parts.

My main concern would be the wait time for these parts.

 

[E46M3forRay]

It’s totaled.

start window car shopping already.

 

[splv]

Glad you're ok. How much you pay the guy driving the truck? He deserves at least a 12 pack of Guinness for helping you get out of a MY20 and into a MY21.

 

[Waferz]

well it looks like BMW parts are very expensive. The estimate so far already hit 40k and thats just from a call they had with Toyota on the parts they would need. Ultimately it's up to my insurance to make the call if its a total loss

Looked into this. As I suspected the QP seems hard to get. I’ll call another dealer of ours today and see if I can get some info, but I was not able to get pricing or availability else where. As far as the rest of the parts go, readily available, very reasonable costs.

The most expensive part on your repair besides the quarter will be the hatch. The hatch lists at under $1,500 (and actually costs less than that). Your next most expensive part is your rear bumper, which lists at $314.

My guess is that replacement quarter will be between 1500-2000. The hood itself is only $900 cost and $1,400 list and requires a pretty aggressive stamp as well, so we can see that just because a panel is extravagant doesn’t mean it will be unaffordable.

Wether you’re forced to wait for a quarter or not is up to the insurance company. They may decide to total just because a quarter is unavailable. Hell, they may even try to make the shop repair it. I’ve had a car sit in the shop for over 6 months due to a back ordered seat cover with an air bag. Customer had to pay their own rental for a portion of this as well, which didn’t seem fair to us. One thing I will repeat is that your personal insurance company will treat and listen to you much better than the person who hit you’s and can sue them for the damages so it does not affect your premiums.

Anyhow, not sure where you’re sourcing your information, but I would go elsewhere. There is no where near 40k of replacement parts on your car. 40k even WITH labor is completely unreasonable. This is a 12-18k repair all day.

Looked into repair procedures as well, nothing special. Anyone decent can do it.

Keep in mind that you can get with the body shop you choose And replace things like the hatch with aftermarket carbon pieces if you desire. Any delays in aftermarket parts that extend out of the ECD will absolutely put the rental costs on your back, though.

 

[Jay2004]

Oh man...that sucks. I would personally hope that it gets totaled. I wouldn't be ok with driving a car that has gone through that. I've seen cars with less damage on the salvage thread. That rear quarter panel!!!

Time to get insurance to pay for the real TRD kit and a 2021?

Animal Services hit my Supra on a highway exit and I just had the TRD parts installed

(everyone is fine just whiplash)

[/QUOTE

Animal Services hit my Supra on a highway exit and I just had the TRD parts installed

(everyone is fine just whiplash)

Glad everyone is alright. That really sucks. How fast was this guy going to hit you that hard? Well now he just bought you a new one. Its totally done, with the computer system in the trunk that cost God knows how much, panel can't be repaired, the hatch is actually built into the car, I'm sure under the car is messed up. Yep, gone forever.

 

[DesmoSD]

Looked into this. As I suspected the QP seems hard to get. I’ll call another dealer of ours today and see if I can get some info, but I was not able to get pricing or availability else where. As far as the rest of the parts go, readily available, very reasonable costs.

The most expensive part on your repair besides the quarter will be the hatch. The hatch lists at under $1,500 (and actually costs less than that). Your next most expensive part is your rear bumper, which lists at $314.

My guess is that replacement quarter will be between 1500-2000. The hood itself is only $900 cost and $1,400 list and requires a pretty aggressive stamp as well, so we can see that just because a panel is extravagant doesn’t mean it will be unaffordable.

Wether you’re forced to wait for a quarter or not is up to the insurance company. They may decide to total just because a quarter is unavailable. Hell, they may even try to make the shop repair it. I’ve had a car sit in the shop for over 6 months due to a back ordered seat cover with an air bag. Customer had to pay their own rental for a portion of this as well, which didn’t seem fair to us. One thing I will repeat is that your personal insurance company will treat and listen to you much better than the person who hit you’s and can sue them for the damages so it does not affect your premiums.

Anyhow, not sure where you’re sourcing your information, but I would go elsewhere. There is no where near 40k of replacement parts on your car. 40k even WITH labor is completely unreasonable. This is a 12-18k repair all day.

Looked into repair procedures as well, nothing special. Anyone decent can do it.

Keep in mind that you can get with the body shop you choose And replace things like the hatch with aftermarket carbon pieces if you desire. Any delays in aftermarket parts that extend out of the ECD will absolutely put the rental costs on your back, though.

Good diligence on your behalf but this is not your battle. Sure it might be a 12-18K in your neck of the woods but dealing with California, things are more strict and the insurance companies would rather total it then try and save it. Toyota Techs can barely figure out the PDI, how much more for collision repair. They are probably still in training.

Besides, with the '21's coming, a red flag on the CarFax and the insurance taking care of it, let it go. If this was a classic or like the MKIV, def try and save it.

 

[Waferz]

Good diligence on your behalf but this is not your battle. Sure it might be a 12-18K in your neck of the woods but dealing with California, things are more strict and the insurance companies would rather total it then try and save it. Toyota Techs can barely figure out the PDI, how much more for collision repair. They are probably still in training.

Besides, with the '21's coming, a red flag on the CarFax and the insurance taking care of it, let it go. If this was a classic or like the MKIV, def try and save it.

I don’t disagree one bit. If the insurance deems it totaled let it go. Would be silly to keep it. I’m not at all trying to convince someone to keep totaled car. But totaling a car is based off value and not an opinion of wether they should fix it or not. An insurance company would absolutely not prefer to pay you 55k for your car when the repair is under 20k unless something is absolutely unrepairable. This is common sense.

With that said there is nothing special about the way that California handles these deals. They work off of TLF which means that repair costs + salvage value > actual value. I’m not sure what a salvage supra is selling for but I can’t imagine it’s more than 30k. Even at 30k, 30k+20k repairs you have not met the limit if your car is valued at over 50k.

I already stated to avoid Toyota techs for repairs and find a reputable shop. This goes for any vehicle. Repairing these cars isn’t rocket science.

Anyhow, you are right, it’s not my battle. I did the research thru my distributors for my own good incase anything were to happen with mine after seeing someone be told there is 40k of parts on a relatively small hit. Go and browse iaa. There are supras smashed front and back, with engine damage, rolled over, etc that estimate 40k in parts AND repairs.... this is not one. The reason I reported back is to combat the ignorance that is being spread, nothing more.

If my car were to total I would be buying a new RS3, not another supra. Got my flame suit ready. Lol

 

[DesmoSD]

I don’t disagree one bit. If the insurance deems it totaled let it go. Would be silly to keep it. I’m not at all trying to convince someone to keep totaled car. But totaling a car is based off value and not an opinion of wether they should fix it or not. An insurance company would absolutely not prefer to pay you 55k for your car when the repair is under 20k unless something is absolutely unrepairable. This is common sense.

With that said there is nothing special about the way that California handles these deals. They work off of TLF which means that repair costs + salvage value > actual value. I’m not sure what a salvage supra is selling for but I can’t imagine it’s more than 30k. Even at 30k, 30k+20k repairs you have not met the limit if your car is valued at over 50k.

I already stated to avoid Toyota techs for repairs and find a reputable shop. This goes for any vehicle. Repairing these cars isn’t rocket science.

Anyhow, you are right, it’s not my battle. I did the research thru my distributors for my own good incase anything were to happen with mine after seeing someone be told there is 40k of parts on a relatively small hit. Go and browse iaa. There are supras smashed front and back, with engine damage, rolled over, etc that estimate 40k in parts AND repairs.... this is not one. The reason I reported back is to combat the ignorance that is being spread, nothing more.

If my car were to total I would be buying a new RS3, not another supra. Got my flame suit ready. Lol

That's right, it's based on the Cal. Veh. Code § 11515. Seeing this Supra with similar damage (subjective) in the salvage yard is another indicator that there could be other factors then just the TLF. Once you get to the quarters, it's going on a celette.

As a general rule, a damaged auto is considered “totaled” when the cost of repair is higher than the Actual Cash Value (ACV) of the auto. As anyone who has gone through this is aware, it is not always practical to repair the auto, even if the cost of repair is less than the ACV. Usually, there is a percentage (which differs from state to state and insurer to insurer) at which the auto will be considered a “Total Loss.” This analysis becomes acute when the cost of repairs approach 75% of the value of the vehicle.

To determine whether an auto is considered a “total”, the insurer will calculate the total loss ratio (cost of repairs/ACV) and then compare this ratio to its internal limits, or “Total Loss Formula” (TLF). While there is no bright line test in California, the experience of this office is around a 75% ratio. One of the reasons an insurer will accept the “balance” of the additional 25% is that severely damaged autos often need additional repairs that exceed the original estimates. As the repairs get closer and closer to 100% ACV, the insurer risks losing more money because in addition to the repairs, there may be payouts for rental cars and storage. Further, an upset insured is more likely to insist on further and further repairs.

The Total Loss Formula (TLF) in California is:

Cost of Repairs + Salvage Value ≥ Actual Cash Value.

If the sum of the first two amounts are greater than the ACV, the auto is a total loss. Salvage Value is the amount the insurer could sell the auto in its damaged condition. This amount is usually very small, especially if it is for the scrape metal value of the auto. Occasionally, large portions of the auto are still useable, such as the front end, engine or fancy tires. We see high Salvage Value in desirable autos such as Mercedes Benz or classic cars that can be scavenged for parts. In addition, slightly higher salvage values go to popular “best sellers” like Honda Accord and Toyota Camry because there is a huge market for replacement parts.

If the consumer wishes to “Retain Salvage,” the insurer will pay the Total Loss minus the Salvage Value and the consumer keeps the auto. However, if the auto is repaired and returns to the highway in operating condition, the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) requires that there be a Salvage Certificate which will be forever noted on the auto’s title. Many consumers chose to repair a “totaled” vehicle because they have a connection to a repair shop or do the repairs themselves. In those cases, the consumer believes the value of the auto in operating condition, with the salvage certificate, is more valuable than accepting the insurer’s total loss payment.

 

[Waferz]

That's right, it's based on the Cal. Veh. Code § 11515. Seeing this Supra with similar damage (subjective) in the salvage yard is another indicator that there could be other factors then just the TLF. Once you get to the quarters, it's going on a celette.

As a general rule, a damaged auto is considered “totaled” when the cost of repair is higher than the Actual Cash Value (ACV) of the auto. As anyone who has gone through this is aware, it is not always practical to repair the auto, even if the cost of repair is less than the ACV. Usually, there is a percentage (which differs from state to state and insurer to insurer) at which the auto will be considered a “Total Loss.” This analysis becomes acute when the cost of repairs approach 75% of the value of the vehicle.

To determine whether an auto is considered a “total”, the insurer will calculate the total loss ratio (cost of repairs/ACV) and then compare this ratio to its internal limits, or “Total Loss Formula” (TLF). While there is no bright line test in California, the experience of this office is around a 75% ratio. One of the reasons an insurer will accept the “balance” of the additional 25% is that severely damaged autos often need additional repairs that exceed the original estimates. As the repairs get closer and closer to 100% ACV, the insurer risks losing more money because in addition to the repairs, there may be payouts for rental cars and storage. Further, an upset insured is more likely to insist on further and further repairs.

The Total Loss Formula (TLF) in California is:

Cost of Repairs + Salvage Value ≥ Actual Cash Value.

If the sum of the first two amounts are greater than the ACV, the auto is a total loss. Salvage Value is the amount the insurer could sell the auto in its damaged condition. This amount is usually very small, especially if it is for the scrape metal value of the auto. Occasionally, large portions of the auto are still useable, such as the front end, engine or fancy tires. We see high Salvage Value in desirable autos such as Mercedes Benz or classic cars that can be scavenged for parts. In addition, slightly higher salvage values go to popular “best sellers” like Honda Accord and Toyota Camry because there is a huge market for replacement parts.

If the consumer wishes to “Retain Salvage,” the insurer will pay the Total Loss minus the Salvage Value and the consumer keeps the auto. However, if the auto is repaired and returns to the highway in operating condition, the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) requires that there be a Salvage Certificate which will be forever noted on the auto’s title. Many consumers chose to repair a “totaled” vehicle because they have a connection to a repair shop or do the repairs themselves. In those cases, the consumer believes the value of the auto in operating condition, with the salvage certificate, is more valuable than accepting the insurer’s total loss payment.

You didn’t attach the photo of the front of the car where you can see that the car was pushed into something hard enough to damage the inner supports. Notice the entire repair estimation on this one is 40k and not just the parts list?

Nonetheless I would be surprised to see a 40k estimate but anything if possible I suppose. Hopefully it all works out for OP.

 

[gdi2290]

I can give everyone a run down of what the body shop/insurance said after all this is settled if it's totaled and how they got to 40k. Thanks for all the support. I didn't have gap insurance because I had a large downpayment and I owe less than what the car is worth. I definitely recommend everyone install front/rear dash cams and if you're going to owe more than the car's worth (low/no down payment) always get gap insurance. Looking at the bright side I can order the A91 but if I had the choice I much rather keep my car. If I end up getting an A91 I'll try to get the blue one and install an exhaust sooner because I rather people notice me than crash into me. Now I have to cancel orders for parts and not have a supra for a few months or more :/

 

[Waferz]

I can give everyone a run down of what the body shop/insurance said after all this is settled if it's totaled and how they got to 40k. Thanks for all the support. I didn't have gap insurance because I had a large downpayment and I owe less than what the car is worth. I definitely recommend everyone install front/rear dash cams and if you're going to owe more than the car's worth (low/no down payment) always get gap insurance. Looking at the bright side I can order the A91 but if I had the choice I much rather keep my car. If I end up getting an A91 I'll try to get the blue one and install an exhaust sooner because I rather people notice me than crash into me. Now I have to cancel orders for parts and not have a supra for a few months or more :/

Very unfortunate. I hope something timely happens for you.

 

[akasonny]

Yes, where I bought mine here in Tucson, they have sold one, and it was to a performance shop. The other two, the owner bought and now has one for sale on the floor (very nice looking, lowered, new wheels and all the lower trim done in the same color as the car but asking too much and mine. So one really legit sales done. Not good but I get lots of thumbs up and yells out, beautiful and people taking pictures. Just too niche a product now days, sadly. So yes, I would bet, 400 will be enough.

I'm in Tucson. Picked mine up at Camelback in Phoenix.

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