most track has compressors available for everyone to use. would be much faster than portable compressor. otherwise, you could use one came with the car. I usually start high pressure and go lower depends on condition and leave it all weekend long until I come back home. - so would have less things to think about.
Both Dewalt and Ryobi make great small compressors that are set and forget. Meaning you set a pressure and it auto shuts off when it reaches it. Recommend either. Depends on what ecosystem you have already invested in, if at all.
I use this since all of my hand tools are DeWalt. This runs off the cigarette lighter or a battery. I set the PSI and it runs to that pressure and stops. It even adds as extra 0.2 psi or so to compensate for air loss when you remove it lol
From what people who know better than I have told me, stiffer suspension helps with transitions but usually results is a reduction of overall grip.
I have over 10 years of chassis setup experience 80% of them being BMW and never have I needed to go anything more than full soft setting on sways with preset adjustments. On the race sway bars which are hollow bar slider/blade type the most weāve needed was ~10% over full soft.
Yeah, I edited my original post as I think I confused some things. One important thing I have read is that "Lateral load transfer in one axle will change with the proportion of the roll stiffnesses on that axle, not the roll stiffnesses themselves." So putting proportionally stiffer sway bars on both axles shouldn't do much to overall weight transfer/grip, but if stiffening one or the other improves balance between front and rear, you may actually be faster.I use this since all of my hand tools are DeWalt. This runs off the cigarette lighter or a battery. I set the PSI and it runs to that pressure and stops. It even adds as extra 0.2 psi or so to compensate for air loss when you remove it lol
From what people who know better than I have told me, stiffer suspension helps with transitions but usually results is a reduction of overall grip.
Most of us find a balance in how much overall grip we're willing to give up versus response of the car.
For me, I take a look at the tracks I run and determine how much steady-state grip I'm going to need, on average, versus transitioning.
Right now, my stock setup has worked really well together and I think, in my case, I would lose too much grip by swapping to a different sway bar.
I would obviously have to do back to back comparisons to see for sure, which I might do next year, once I have time to play around and the weather is better.
Some to consider:
Stuff you already know but to share with others. āIf you plan on attending any track events, a set of coilovers is a much better purchase than lowering springs.ā - Completely agree with them (link below) & wish I did it sooner. Bonus: the Ohlins come with linear springs. Great combo with my sway bars.
You need spacers for the wheels to clear the stock suspension.
The fronts will take more of a beating than rears if it's a turn heavy course. I ran oem PSS for a while and they'll start chunking the edges before you use up tread. I'd say you should be fine. Most groups do a single tech inspection for the whole weekend so it'd be up to you to check them and deem them safe or not. If you haven't tracked much before honestly I would say you're not going to find the real limit anyway. And if you overdrive and spin out you have fundamental issues that you need a coach for.
at least worn tires are less likely to chunk
