Track day noob, any suggestions? And future advice on build progression?

[FLtrackdays]

Great point others brought up on alignment and SRF brake fluid. You’ll want to 1-click off the traction control. Otherwise the car will be grabbing the brakes all over the track if you don’t. Just don’t hold it down over 3 seconds. That’s full blown drift mode, lol. It’s a huge difference between the two. One click off, you’ll save your brakes and won’t be sorry.

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[Joker328]

My only advice is to take her easy and don't push too hard, especially as you gain confidence. It's not worth the cost or the emotional damage if you put it in the wall. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[bushido]

Haha funny enough it won't be in Florida, but it's going to be Streets of Willow CW. Thank you!

how dare you bamboozle me

also,
Hagerty Track Day Insurance

 

[F348]

Will definitely get coaching! I think I will prioritize getting a lap timer/data logger next, I do a lot of simracing and am always looking at VRS tele data to find those last tenths. Do you have any experience with the Catalyst and the Aim Solo 2 DL? Based off my research seems like the Garmin catalyst doesn't give you a lot of data (Throttle, Brake, Yaw rate, optimal vs. best sector times)

Depends what you are looking for. I ran the Aim Solo DL before getting the Catalyst; so, now I run both. The Aim is more serious of a device and gives you much more feedback and information. So much so, that you have to really understand how to use it. You can overlay other drivers data to compare. It does not give you "optimal" on its own.

If your goal is see what you can do better, the Catalyst is much easier to use. It studies you, and recommends optimal from you have already shown you can do. There is also a way to compare with your friends but it is much more basic data than Aim.

If you want to know about the cars mechanical state, such a temps, or if you want to study every millisecond of your performance, then you need the AIM.

Here is a video from the Catalyst. This is what you gets straight out of the device:



Here is an example with the AIM. This requires a GoPro and overlay software. Takes time to make these overlays.

 

[tomfree]

Lots of good input...my $.02 RE: your next steps list, and added "-1.":

-1. Verus Camber plates - assuming you stay with stock or stock-style lowering springs. You need negative camber in the front for better turn in and to keep tire wear manageable. If you go to a full coilover, go with whatever camber plate integrates with that system.

1. Titan 7 T-S5 Forged wheels 18x10.7 squared
Excellent. There are cheaper ways to go - Konig Hypergram 18x11s, but you won't go wrong with the Titan7

2. Hankook RS4 275-40-18 all around
Interesting choice. I have a LOT of laps on the RS4, and it's an OLD tire. It wears like iron, but it simply does not have the grip of a modern 200TW. It's also crappy in the rain. The PS4S you have listed is a better all-around tire than the RS4 and doesn't give up a lot of grip. I"d also recommend a 275/35 vs the 275/40. The 40 series is a little tall, and you don't need the gearing change.

3. Simpson Racing Hybrid S HANS
Do this first. The Hybrid S is the only game in town for H&N with 3 point belts. I have one.

4. Eibach front and rear Sway Bar
Search on here for the instructions on doing the rear sway bar. You have to drop the rear subframe a few inches to fish in the rear bar, replacing a bunch of single use torque to yield bolts. It's a do-able DIY, but it's a pain. I have AFE-Control sways, but can't go wrong with Eibach.

5. Garmin Catalyst or AIM solo
Garmin because ease of use and powerful.

6. RK Track Exhaust
I'm old, and when I see track exhaust, I think miserable drone when driving on the highway...no hands on experience with this particular unit, however.

 

[AHP]

First track day ever? All you need is SRF, helmet and ideally an alignment.

I would absolutely run the OEM pads to start. They are 100% capable. Save the Hawks until you're at least solo if you decide to continue on.

PS4S will be fine to start out. I generally like them as a dual duty tire, but they have a bad habit of peeling the outer shoulders off if you're an aggressive driver (which you shouldn't be to start) but especially if you don't have enough negative camber dialed.

 

[Evolution]

SOW CW isnt a track that requires much braking. If you are on stock tires, the stock pads should work fine.

 

[Gabe]

Joining the chorus here.

Take the car stock. It’s a lot of power for someone just starting. Feel what the car can do.

Then slowly start modifying the car and keep going to the track. As you get more seat time you will be able to extract the power the engine has.

My personal advice on build progression:

1. Get the essential mods in place (make it a better car)
2. Get better grip (tires / suspension / alignment)
3. Make it safe (upgrade brakes)
4. Keep it cool (engine / fluid temperature)
5. Improve downforce (aero)
6. Wrap up the package (seats/roll bar/ seatbelts/steering wheel)
7. Add more power to the engine.

See how the LAST THING I would mod is to add more power to the engine.
Novice people make the mistake to add more engine power first. The real learning curve is grip/downforce/power.

If you need a gross idea of making a track car, I have drawn a progression map and started through making those mods.

Here.

 

[FLtrackdays]

SOW CW isnt a track that requires much braking. If you are on stock tires, the stock pads should work fine.

Sean is right. You won’t need anything in the beginning besides fresh brake fluid. If you have the other things you mentioned - you did better homework than me when I 1st got mine ?

 

[Oodis]

Joining the chorus here.

Take the car stock. It’s a lot of power for someone just starting. Feel what the car can do.

Then slowly start modifying the car and keep going to the track. As you get more seat time you will be able to extract the power the engine has.

My personal advice on build progression:

1. Get the essential mods in place (make it a better car)
2. Get better grip (tires / suspension / alignment)
3. Make it safe (upgrade brakes)
4. Keep it cool (engine / fluid temperature)
5. Improve downforce (aero)
6. Wrap up the package (seats/roll bar/ seatbelts/steering wheel)
7. Add more power to the engine.

See how the LAST THING I would mod is to add more power to the engine.
Novice people make the mistake to add more engine power first. The real learning curve is grip/downforce/power.

If you need a gross idea of making a track car, I have drawn a progression map and started through making those mods.

Here.

I still run stock power.

I just drive it like an mx5 but with bigger balls.

 

[zrk]

0. Sport Mode
1. Tap Traction Control - (turn off traction)
2. Hold Traction Control - (turn off VSC)
3. Switch to manual mode
4. Burnout in First gear in the water box
5. Approach staging lights
6. Shift to 2nd
7. Attempt to push the brake pedal through the floor with your LEFT foot
7a. Pump Brake Pedal HARD
8. While holding the brake pedal down, bring RPMs up to ~2k RPMs quickly (you'll feel the car "squat"), this is the torque converter loading. Boost will climb.
9. On Green - Mash gas & release brake
10. Shift when you see the indicator reach 55-5600 RPMs (stock turbo)
10a. Don't shift out of 5th, ride it through.

Pushing much harder than 2200 RPMs loading up the converter is a sure-fire way to snap an axle after a couple of passes, and it's 3-4 months for a DSS axle. Careful.

??????

 

[Dannyvandelft]

Hi everyone,

I have my first track day coming up in December I ordered several things that I will installing on my car soon. Realized I probably should've asked the forums before pulling the trigger but nonetheless just want to make sure I made safe choices and am going in the right direction. I have currently already ordered:

1. 60/30 DTC Hawk brake pads (Was debating between these, Project Mu Club Racers or CSG C21 & C11)
2. Castrol SRF Racing brake fluid (Didn't know if this or Endless RF-650 was better, went with SRF bc it was cheaper lol)
3. Verus Engineering Master Cylinder Brace
4. Racequip Pro20 Full Face Helmet
On stock suspension, stock wheels and on PS4s 275-35 rear and 255-35 front.

Later down the line what I have planned (Not ordered yet but will probably buy after trackday if I'm super into it):

1. Titan 7 T-S5 Forged wheels 18x10.7 squared
2. Hankook RS4 275-40-18 all around
3. Simpson Racing Hybrid S HANS
4. Eibach front and rear Sway Bar
5. Garmin Catalyst or AIM solo
6. RK Track Exhaust

I guess some questions that I have about above:

1. Did I make the right choice on brake pads? I was debating on whether I should've went with a hybrid or pure track pad and figured since I had enough life on the OEM ones I could just switch them out after I'm done with the track day.

2. Does anyone switch from track pads to OEM pads back and forth? Is it okay on your rotors? Does anyone just run track pads full time? This car is technically my daily but I WFH and use my Gf's Tesla for 90% of daily driving duty.

3. I have medium life on my tires (Per dealership). Will that be safe/okay before my track day? I know that PS4s aren't the best on the track and don't last too long.

4. Should I prioritize the HANS device, the 18' Square wheels, sway bars or something totally different next? I try to only spend money from interest accrued from my HYSA so there will be a large gap in between acquiring these.

5. Are there any suggestions/alternatives that you guys may suggest to what I've listed above? Was thinking about doing full body PPF but was quoted $7000 lol. Is it worth doing?

Cheers

The biggest mistake you can make is bolting all that shit on your car if you're a newbie, because you don't know how to utilize it. You can put on awesome brake pads, tires, braces, it will do NOTHING for you but waste money. The car is perfectly capable in stock form. It can take way more than you can give it. Spend the mod money on seat time. The only thing that needs upgrades, is your skill.

 

[FLtrackdays]

The biggest mistake you can make is bolting all that shit on your car if you're a newbie, because you don't know how to utilize it. You can put on awesome brake pads, tires, braces, it will do NOTHING for you but waste money. The car is perfectly capable in stock form. It can take way more than you can give it. Spend the mod money on seat time. The only thing that needs upgrades, is your skill.

That is the biggest bang for the track buck by far! However, for track… No 4, dude has gotta get a helmet anyway. Number 2 won‘t hurt. Especially if his fluid has been sitting in the car for a while. Gotta love that SRF higher wet temp for the track. No 1, Hawk DTC pads are inexpensive for how good they are. He’ll get major longevity out of them.

So he’s not doing a lot to car, if he plans on continuing to track. But you’re right, it can turn into a giant wabbit hole of wasted money until you get up to speed and truly start burning through parts.

 

[romanLegion9574]

The helmet is a must if you're planning on doing this regularly. There are places that rent helmets out with helmet socks, but I'd much rather not use a helmet that someone else has been sweating in.

DOT4 braking fluid is not mandatory, but really nice to have. It will give you peace of mind. Stock pads will work, but won't get the same longevity, and may wear heavily on more braking heavy tracks.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Most recent/relevant track pad thread I could find & wanted to share. You might be interested too @Levophed

After ordering the most expensive brake pads I’ve ever purchased ?…. CSG CE2 for the front rotors, my backorder of Project Mu 999s came in ?. Talk about timing. But not complaining. Those P mu 999s are incredible track pads once you’ve hit a limit & become really comfortable in the car. I’m sure the CSGs will be excellent also. I’m keeping my Hawk DTC 30s on the rear for now. They last so long and bite well.

If anyone in Florida wants some really nice brand new Project Mu Club Racers or Hawk DTC60s, I’ve got extras. I can bring them to the next Sebring NASA event.

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