Electronics Affecting Traction Control

Darth

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Turning traction control off for HPDE/Trackday used to be a simple task back in the day, now we have to deal with all the modern electronics and keep them happy to leave us alone. Even with traction control completely off the stability systems are still kicking in under heavy braking/trail braking, but that's a different subject to discus anyway.

I thought it would be beneficial for current and new owners tracking their cars to have all info in one thread where it can be updated regularly.

TPMS
Traction control will come back on if low pressure is detected. To lower the tire pressure threshold you can start with 28 psi cold pressure (no lower or it will turn TPMS warning light anyway) then go into the iDrive menu/vehicle status/TPMS page.

You have to select others for the type of tire and the size then press calibrate. For the calibration you will have to drive around. Once its done you can track the car with no issues. Now if in mid session you wanted to bleed some pressure its fine,but remember if you do so the next session you will start with cold pressures under 28 psi which will trigger the TPMS warning. In this case you would ether re-inflate your tires between sessions or do some warm up laps until you are above 27 psi to turn off the traction control.

Running wheels without TPMS in few cases seems to be not affecting traction control.

EDC (ELECTRONIC SUSPENSION CANCELLATION KIT)
In the case of an aftermarket suspension you would need an EDC to turn the traction control off. There are two options on the market currently. KW EDC which seems to be not working as advertised and the newly released RS-R EDC. Fortune auto confirmed that they will not be working on their own EDC.

Ride Height Sensor
Again in the case of an aftermarket suspension with lowered ride height the sensor can be triggered affecting traction control. To fix this issue the ride height sensor arm needs to be shortened to have about 90° angle while the car is on the ground.


The thread will be updated as I find more info. Please share your findings and how are you managing them.
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trakday

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This is a good thread.
I installed 18' wider rims and wider tires with no TPMS installed. Im curious what will happen when I track the car.
 

Mark5825

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Have you tested the 18's without the TPMS?
 
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Darth

Darth

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I was on 18s squared without TPMS, and honestly the lack of TPMS didn't cause any problems. Most of our issues came from the canceller and ride height sensor currently.
How did you confirm that the issue is not from the TPMS missing? For me and CarGuy11 we had traction control coming back on when the car detects low pressures (Less than 27 psi) Maybe if it can't detect any TPMS it won't come back on?
 

JackieD86

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How did you confirm that the issue is not from the TPMS missing? For me and CarGuy11 we had traction control coming back on when the car detects low pressures (Less than 27 psi) Maybe if it can't detect any TPMS it won't come back on?

I selected the setting in the wheels and tires setting to 275/40/18 (new wheels didn't have TPMS mounted) and the car didn't freak out other than a TPMS malfunction warning. I had TPMS-related TC problems with our first car that was on stock suspension, and I know it causes the TC to turn back on and we had to turn it off a second time during warm up. But the suspension-related TC problem forces TC to stay on once detected and can't be turned off at all until the engine turns off, it's a different problem with a different cause.
 

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What can we do about the EDC other than buying KW's kit which unreasonably expensive, is there anyway to code it out?
 
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Darth

Darth

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I was on 18s squared without TPMS, and honestly the lack of TPMS didn't cause any problems. Most of our issues came from the canceller and ride height sensor currently.
What can we do about the EDC other than buying KW's kit which unreasonably expensive, is there anyway to code it out?

I am pretty sure coding will not eliminate it. Also KW's kit don't seem to work as advertised all the time.

I remember Jackie using them and still having some issues. Don't really know how he is getting around the EDC issue currently.
 

JackieD86

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What can we do about the EDC other than buying KW's kit which unreasonably expensive, is there anyway to code it out?
I am pretty sure coding will not eliminate it. Also KW's kit don't seem to work as advertised all the time.

I remember Jackie using them and still having some issues. Don't really know how he is getting around the EDC issue currently.
I haven't come across any coding solutions yet.
EDC issue, I've come to think that it's a KW issue, and that their cancellers just doesn't work properly. Supposedly they insisted that there isn't an issue even when they were provided concrete data with error codes suggesting there is a problem with the rear EDCs. Mine works for about 2 laps on track before error codes kick in and my TC is forced on. I'll be trying the solution Darth listed in the main post soon so will report back if that works.

From what I heard, a few companies are working on their own cancellers, so hopefully we will have alternatives as opposed to spending 900$ on 2 KW EDC kits.
 

NotSoJDM

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I haven't come across any coding solutions yet.
EDC issue, I've come to think that it's a KW issue, and that their cancellers just doesn't work properly. Supposedly they insisted that there isn't an issue even when they were provided concrete data with error codes suggesting there is a problem with the rear EDCs. Mine works for about 2 laps on track before error codes kick in and my TC is forced on. I'll be trying the solution Darth listed in the main post soon so will report back if that works.

From what I heard, a few companies are working on their own cancellers, so hopefully we will have alternatives as opposed to spending 900$ on 2 KW EDC kits.
I'm very interested in hearing how this works out for you. I have the V3s on my car with a set of cancellers, but haven't tracked it since the install. I'm hoping to not start 2020 season with issues
 
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Darth

Darth

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Thread updated!
 

JackieD86

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Likely my favorite thread of the whole forum. Here's a bit more info I found.

Running no TPMS will not cause much traction issue (apart from having to switch it off again when going on track), but it will trigger 5 codes in the ABS module, 4 corresponding to each corner of the car missing TPMS and 1 for unable to refresh TPMS system. That said, these codes don't seem to be affecting ABS or traction control. We'll be playing with our new tablets further, and report back with more info.
 

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A friend advised me to keep each TPMS in its original corner when swapping wheels / tyres and that it won't cause any issues or throw codes. is that true?
 
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Darth

Darth

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A friend advised me to keep each TPMS in its original corner when swapping wheels / tyres and that it won't cause any issues or throw codes. is that true?
I would keep them at their original corners, but if they are switched you can always recalibrate them as mentioned above.
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