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Had this happen once as well. I suspected it was due to the heater being on as the codes (pulled via BimmerLink) indicated iDrive overheating. No tune/stock. Been more mindful of not blasting the heat with the upper fans close to the head unit and hasn’t happened for over a year.

Mine is the same way/I assume it’s perfectly normal.

I’m a fan of Bosch wiper blades, but the OEM set is $50 MSRP and can be found for less online.

The two different size blades are included within the one part number.

The OEM part for both blades is 85212-WAA01.

Ah thanks, I must have missed that. Wonder if our existing wiring will work without modification. Will read back through.

Has anyone looked at if the Z4 horn is a direct swap? I’d hope so. (Z4 horn sounds much, much better - see throttle house Supra/Z4 comparison review for comparison).

This is a common issue with BMWs (various root causes though) and shouldn’t be so difficult to diagnose - I would suggest contacting Toyota directly and see if that helps.

Which corner of the engine did it happen on? Sorry if it is stated within the thread and I missed it.

Completely normal.

I suspect this could be problematic for two reasons: 1.) It may not register with Toyota (and Carfax etc) that the recall was compete 2.) BMW’s “version” of ISTA may not allow update of the Supra I’m very much hypothesizing and hope I’m wrong I’m both accounts. Personally I’m sitting tight...

Quite curious where the percentage came from as I wouldn’t think that is something manufactures would share. Also wonder if it is simply due to not be maintaining voltage (hooking up a charger) during the update process.

Not sure if you guys are joking, but the arrow indicates the appropriate lift point. There’s one on the front as well.

Are you guys able to code modules other than HU_NBT_EVO post-recall update?

That’s quite odd while using a torque wrench (assuming it’s calibrated and such). $2k doesn’t surprise me; I have not confirmed this in the service manual, but I believe the crossmember may have to come down to get access to the oil pan so there’s some labor involved.

Just a case of not threading it on by hand first? I imagine it’ll unfortunately require a new pan (unless they place an insert on there…I’d probably go new pan).

Yep same. Haven't been to the dealer yet (Toyota or BMW) and was curious if they had a similar OEM version, or if lifting without pads containing an insert is safe. Seems so.

Thanks! So just flat pads without the little insert sold on the aftermarket pads? Example attached.

Curious, did they use some sort of puck for the lift placement on the jack points?

Well, @Loco38SUP and @jchadwell , you were both spot on. I kept an eye on the drain plug and after about 150 miles after the oil change it began to you have a (very) small drip. I dropped the oil and the aluminum washer was stuck on the plug this time, along with the copper washer. Lesson...