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Are they trolling with this car? You can zoom in on any area of the car and find something bad. I tried finding something tasteful but my eyes started to hurt.

What are drag radials?

Stock suspension and not lowered? If so you might not rub the fender. When I ran 275 A052’s up front with my Apex EC-7R wheels (10.5” wide), I needed a 12mm spacer to clear the strut assembly. But then the tires rubbed the fender terribly. I had to change to HKS adjustable lowering springs that...

Just looked those up. Good weight savings! Should hopefully help you with those 1/4 mile times. I’ll be going with some cheap ones that still do the job since I burn through mine fast.

All seriousness though, I think it goes well with the black. Are you still on your stock rotors?

That color reminds me of this ? Is that why you want to go with it, because that’s your favorite emoji?

My take: One imperfection, and MAYBE two if it were in a tough spot to see, I could live with but these are very noticeable in my opinion and there’s too many. I would take it back and have them fix their work. Again, if it were me, I would also be printing out this whole thread when I go back...

Sounds good. Thanks.

Thanks! Center to center meaning where the bolt is, right? I believe last I measured, mine were 16 and a 1/2” center to center. Caster bushings feel amazing. Much better feel and responsiveness. Yes, caster was a bit uneven, 9.96 and 9.35 before and 8.5 after.

What end links do you have and do you know what length yours are? I might give shortening mine a try just to see if I can even make them short enough.

This was my understanding as well. I didn’t want to shorten it because I feared the sway bar would make contact with the toe arm. Adjustable caster bushing helped my issue.

I know. If you read more of my post that you quoted, you will see that I recommend getting a HANS device and said I’ll be getting one before I track it.

No problem. Base is the Bride Type FO. It’s an all in one slider base with side plates.

I believe @fatal-element has it right in his response. Full roll cage without harness and helmet is bad. Harness and bar are fine as along as the bar is mounted securely and in a location. This is correct to my knowledge as well. From what I know, the harness bar and set up I have is safe and...

Had PhD Racing install my new bucket seat, harness bar, and harness along with SPL caster bushing and SPL rear toe links with lockouts. WOW what a big difference. This car feels CONNECTED to the road now. Can’t wait to track it in a couple months.

Personally, I get fuel starve on track with more than half a tank at times. I can’t go any lower than 4 bars. Must mean I’m going too fast through right hand turns.

These still available?

I’m not sure?? I haven’t done any alignments to see if it’s changed since my last alignment. Is there another way to check outside of assuming that’s the cause due to the contact being made?

Update: Problem is back even after chopping off the last hole on the sway bar. It was fine for a few months. Noticed some clunking over bumps again and when I went to look at the control arms, the yellow paint I put in the spot where it used to rub has been worn off. Not as bad but there is...

I track mine a lot. Stock rotors are great for track use, just change the pads and fluid as said above. If you want to upgrade, next best thing would be a big brake and IMO not needed unless doing some competitive time attacks. Even then, not really necessary. Stock rotors are great.