Yeah I’ll still be monitoring it. I looked at misfire counters in all cylinders and it looks great. Usually 1 random misfire in a drive cycle, but the misfire detector might not even be detecting an actual misfire, as I heard they’re super sensitive. So I don’t think it’s piston slap or any kind...
Whew. Happy to hear another say it’s normal and theirs has the same lower tick/“thud”/clank haha.
I’ve read things from it being piston slap to hydraulic lifter valves to knock.
You use Liqui-Moly in yours for tracking? I live in the cold Midwest. I use 0w20 for daily driving during cold months. Was recommended to use a thicker oil for tracking so I am but now I’m second guessing haha.
I always let the engine warm up for at least 15 minutes before using much throttle...
Yeah after some more research and help from everyone I agree. Thanks.
At first it was concerning but I haven’t drove with 5w-30 Liqui Moly in this car when cold, so it shocked me a bit to hear that.
I just switched to Liqui Moly 5w-30 for track purposes per a few peoples recommendations ? they say it’s better for the engine during higher load sessions.
Honestly probably would’ve done the same thing if I wasn’t completely in love with the car haha.
I wasn’t aware it could damage stuff. I’ll look into the issue a bit more as I’m not very familiar with it and If I do report it I should probably switch back to OEM 0w-20 anyways.
It isn’t there...
Changed to Liqui Moly 5w-30 and noticed this noise after a track session. Stock engine, no tunes and zero mods. Not sure what it is, if it’s always been there, or normal. Only hear it on cold starts when everything is cold. When warmed up it’s non existent. The faster, higher pitched ticks are...
Finally got around to shortening the end links. This is the shortest they could go and this photo was taken at right height with the steering wheel at full lock.
I think I’m in the clear now. Really wanted to get this fixed and prevent any more wear to the rod end bearings I just had to replace.
Anyone know of a good shop that can corner balance my car around the Metro-Detroit area after I install my CKS coilovers?
My OEM front shocks are toast apparently as are my SPL spherical bearings (the heim joint side that connects to the frame). Both have play and wiggle so I’m replacing the...
You’re right about the photo, I attached the wrong ones. This is the same side (drivers side) but looking at it from opposite sides. It looks pretty close in my opinion and doesn’t show any damage from the top when I removed the wheel for further inspection. So I doubt it’s causing any weird...
Are those 305 tires up front? I’m jealous. I want a 305 squared set up.
Must be great on the track. Bigger brakes, lighter weight, aero… I want.
Anyone know what the suspension setup is like for adjustability? I saw KW shocks, but am wondering what it has for camber and caster adjustments and...
I was careful when seating it back in the knuckle and torqued it to spec. Thought I did everything correctly so that’s why I’m questioning it and hoping it isn’t pothole damage or something. I’ve hit some for sure, but nothing back breaking or teeth shattering. No flats or bent rims.
I was...
Hey all,
I’m very much a noob when it comes to car engineering/mechanics but am trying to learn as much as I can via here and doing things myself.
Last year I replaced my springs with HKS adjustable lowering springs. This involves removing the strut from the knuckle so the spring perch can be...
I got this code once when I was at the track and used their on-location fuel pump.
With only 3k miles, no tune, and an intake that’s properly installed and a clean MAF I suspect it’s bad fuel. Not sure if adding e85 would help but you could drain the tank and fill with a good quality 93 (I...
What pads and brake fluid were you using? If you noticed any kind of fade or spongy brake pedal, I highly doubt the OEM rotors were the problem, as they can more than hold their own with heavy track use.
I know because I track my car 3-4 times a month and use stock rotors with Castrol SRF...