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I track mine 1-2 times a month when the tracks are open around me. Coming from a Porsche 718 Cayman, this car is quicker and rewards more delicate inputs. It has trained me to be a better driver, which is why I wanted it. So far, I have done the following for track performance: - HKS...

Correct. I would like to see a photo from @Mk5Frank of how it looks after their install.

would you mind posting a photo?

Interesting. I thought the caster bushings would’ve helped a little. Yes I “fixed it” lol. Only way I was able to fix it was by chopping off the last hole on the sway bar. It would be nice if there was a more “official” fix instead of chopping the sway bar to make it clear.

For sure. I don’t care about it burning oil as long as it stays reliable, which only time will tell. I plan on keeping this one for awhile and so far it hasn’t let me down once in the almost 13k miles I put on it in the last few months. I’m not sure if oil burning cars tend to last as long as...

Well, exactly 4000 miles later and my oil went to the halfway mark so issue hasn’t completely gone away with the Liqui Moly 5w-30 but it has definitely made an improvement! I can go a full oil change interval without having to worry about it hitting the min mark.

Yup that’s the one I switched to. So far so good.

Update on my consumption issue: I would normally see the oil level go down to MIN every 1500-2000 miles after an oil change on 0w-20 oil. I decided to switch to Liqui Moly 5w-30 at 8600 miles. Now, I have seen no oil level drop from mile 8600 to 11,300. I also had two track days in those 2700...

Likewise. Won’t ever use them again.

Happened again… annoying that it keeps freezing. Had to pour warm water over it to thaw it out.

I’ve never done that but I see it is a common thing. It ended up being super frozen, it finally opened.

Oh boy… I’m a dumb fool sometimes but I did make sure to check that before posting here… thanks…

No emergency cable. No mention of it in manual and none to be found anywhere in the trunk or fuse box compartment. Some research online shows some newer BMW models removing the release cable. I’ll try warm water after work.

No..

Anyone else have a problem with their fuel door not opening? Usually I can just push it and pop it open. Now however, it’s stuck and won’t open. I push but it stays latched closed. It’s below freezing but it doesn’t feel frozen. Any idea how I could get it open? I'm almost out of gas lol.

Not to go too far off-topic but... Carvana offered me $55,200 for my 2021 3.0 premium that has 11,000 miles on it, so if yours has 10k miles or less, getting close to $60k should be doable for a trade in todays market. I too, am probably going to put a deposit down on an Emira. However, I will...

Yeah... Might want to edit the title of this thread... a little misleading seeing it is not stock. But, nice job keeping the exhaust tips clean. I could never keep them that shiny!

I was going to say the same about hitting it when getting in or out because I’ve hit my wheel with my right side pocket getting in a few times. I’m super careful now.

Oh man… can’t wait to see the price because the thought of actually getting an ECU tune using one of the popular and safe tuners is really intriguing me since mine is a locked ‘21 and more power on track will improve my times once I add a lot more driver mod.

Wow, I would never go back to that third party shop if they can’t even get the alignment close to spec. Errors look like a sensor issue. Not sure if the ride height sensor being disconnected can cause those errors but it’s one of the most common sensors that either people either forget to...