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Shoot. The video I used that had the most useful info was by MSS but I can’t find it now - link doesn’t work anymore but I remember there is a notch, etc. that the purches lined up with. I had mine almost set for max height since I wanted close to stock height initially (on mine there was...

Great. More of those stupid ass wheel cap knee splitters

Shoot damn. I had a similar thing happen. I always shake the car a lot after setting it down and seemed pretty solid. I was under doing something and one side slid off then the other side slid off but fortunately still was held up enough for me to an emergency slide out. But there were a couple...

It’s just a flesh wound…

It was more a comment to those that don’t have garages and worry about rodents or idiots throwing shit in there. I’m garaged so it wouldn’t be a problem for me.

Yeah. Getting old sucks. I’m almost 70 and still do all work on my car. replaced sway bars, front cv axles on my 98 gsx and now have bursitis in my shoulders from awkward wrenching and just getting up and down off the effing floor. But that still won’t stop me from working on my cars.

Need to have a louvered option that operates hydraulically with heat/speed. That way it can stay closed up when not driving. Edit: or designed where it can be opened for track or shut for normal driving.

Make sure to add headlights to use as sconces.

Or just go on a diet - you could probably gain a few seconds on the track. It would be easier for me to loose 30-40lbs and cheaper than replacing all the bolts with titanium just to loose a lb.

There are/used to be some aftermarket ones with a bluish tint that reduced reflections a lot that I think were a bit cheaper.

Don’t bother with concord Toyota.

I installed the mss myself but wasn’t going for low - pretty much stock height. Just wanted something a little stiffer and want to maintain stock shocks abilities. Have verus camber plates too and they max around -3.5 for track use. Haven’t had any issues.

My thought process for pretty much any kind of job is someone new that doesn’t have all the right tools better not be charging premium $$ as I’m not paying that for a learning experience. Shops that have done this work a lot can charge more but they should be able to do it faster too.

Great. Thanks. That gives me a better idea of what to look for.

Hope this isn’t too ignorant a question but when I read about timing I just see comments about bad or better timing- what is considered good timing? I know this is dependent on builds and fuel/temp/elevation, etc. but just trying to get a rough idea how it is determined - like for a stock car...

It’s probably recast. I don’t see any of the original stampings on the hypercore: https://1fastsupra.com/cdn/shop/files/Screenshot_20240124_230551_Gallery_1024x1024.webp?v=1706239552

I might have to double check but I thought the bolt holes didn’t line up with the stock inlet so that can’t really be swapped back for inspection purposes.

That’s what bugged me too. If one of the sensors no longer fits it is definitely NOT a direct oem plug and play.

Did he say why to flash to stage 0 first? I did the flash and after the initial flash I just went to stage 2. Maybe the initial does stage 0 by default? No issues so far.

I’ve been to Dubai and Abu Dhabi a couple times for work and discovered just how fine sand can be. Do you end up cleaning the air filter fairly often?