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This is just held on by a screw or a push pin behind the fender liner. It would be easy to adjust yourself if you wanted. Each body panel has 3-5mm of play inwards and outwards.

+1 to 0W40 with those temps, or a 30 weight oil known to be tolerant to high engine heat like Amsoil Signature 100% Synth 5W30, Pennzoil Platinum 5W30, or QSFS 5W30 -- these oils dont thin out until 275F and the viscosity loss is < 10%.

Royal Purple's ZDDP content is too high for all but a flat tappet engine. Like, if you have a classic car with a pushrod V8 and a carb, Royal Purple is pretty good. But if you have a modern car, you need a more modern formulation with a different additive package. Amsoil Signature Series 5W30...

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 ("QSFS") is dirt cheap and just about the best wear resistance you can buy at the moment. 540Rat and BITOG are going bananas over it. Hard to believe a 5Q jug is only like $23. High Performance Lubricants Heavy Duty Engine Oil ("HPL HDEO") is top of class for 30...

Lots of cars have tried these. Almost everyone ends in misery. Unless you can run front and rear solid guibos with a single-piece prop shaft, and all of it has been balanced as a single rotating assembly by a driveline shop, you will almost certainly experience NVH beyond your wildest...

As I indicated in my post, well-tuned DI turbo cars can often run ~11.5 at WOT. Some even ride the hairy edge at 11.2 right before the top end of the RPM band. It's just a general post and cannot accommodate all scenarios. The actual AFRs are mostly immaterial to the discussion of pops and...

Just use a prybar. :) Stick it behind the pad and pry, and eventually you'll hear a gentle pop, and it'll be free.

This is a very nuanced question for which no data exists. Can these pops and bangs hurt the turbo? In theory, yes. But there's no data to say "not really at X intensity, but somewhat quickly at Y intensity" such that we could make a safe and objective choice. All high-performance vehicles are...

Okay, slightly bigger than the OEM Supra hub. Could be machine tolerances preventing the 66.6 from fitting on your 66.5 hub. That said, the Supra is not a hub-centric car because the OEM setup doesn't use studs and lugnuts. Cars that use lug bolts are called lug-centric, and the centering of...

Likely because there are both 66.1 and 66.5 rings. The ring you have is probably a 66.1-to-73, while the Supra is 66.5.

They're not necessary, but carbon ceramic pads from EBC (e.g. Redstuff) do have them. I'm running EBC Redstuff in front and Power Stop Z23 in rear.

R1 Concepts geomet.

The Pure turbos are the stock turbo with slightly enlarged compressor wheel and hotside exit. No change to compressor housing or frame size, really. Spool is approximately the same.

The pops and bangs are generally normal for high-performance vehicles, but there are factors that can moderate or exacerbate their presence. First and foremost, let's talk about the origin of a pop: The engine's computer is constantly blending an optimal mixture of air and fuel to achieve the...

The stock hood also has a gap all the way around, posing as a body line. The real issue is that CF hoods are incredibly lightweight compared to a stock hood, and can turn into an aerofoil at speed. At best, this will cause the hood to flex and distort at speed. Worst case: the hood can catch so...

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 is currently the best oil in the world for wear protection. Other oils aren't even close. Plus: It's cheap as dirt for a 5qt jug. My local Autozone carried the right filters. The "recommended" 0W20 is only for compliance with US CAFE laws. It's, like, the...

I can move 10 tons of steel. :) @Mk5Frank @Blaque Diamond Wheels

I use this for all my cars: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPSNZPP I absolutely love it. I've had three or four other trickle charges over the years and didn't like them. A Battery Tender (too slow, not enough info, no AGM), a Schumacher (would report 100% when it wasn't), and some other...

Don't even need to put it on ramps. I drive my front or rear onto a 2" thick slab of wood, and that's enough to get the jack under the car. If your jack has a padded seat, you can also just raise the car from any of the jack points as if they were pinch welds.

I have 275/35 up front with +25 offset on 9.5s, and I'm running RS-R Superdown springs which are the lowest drop of any spring (afaik). No rubbing. If I had crappier roads in my city, I'd run 275/30 for more clearance. But the +25 offset versus the usual +22 was key to fitting the 275/35...