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Resetting the interval also clears the light as long as the sensor is new.

Update I'm pretty sure it's brake fluid. I opened the hood and the reservoir has fluid around it and it's overflowing. I'm assuming this is because I pushed the pistons back which caused it to overflow back up through the top to relieve pressure. Anything I should be cautious about since that...

If the built in diagnostic mode reset didn't work then bimmerlink is probably your only option.

Changed out rotors and pads but noticed this leak. Anyone happen to know what I'm leaking? This right under the driver side farther back than the wheel well. It's dripping down through those triple dot holes. I'm trying to remove the cover to check it out in the meantime.

If you nicked the sensor because they got low, then you have to replace the sensor before a reset will work.

Yes change out to a racing dot 4.

Maybe they think the new pads will rattle around because they don't have the glue on them like OEM. That's nothing to be concerned of and changing them is an easy DIY. This is the first car I've changed brakes on myself and it wasn't difficult besides getting the OEM pads out due to the glue...

I called evasive to confirm stock on the club racers, I ordered a couple and there should be 2 sets of fronts left after my order I just placed. No rears.

I’ll take the tow hooks. Sending you a dm.

I had a great birthday weekend at CMP while also successfully completing my first time towing the car to the track. Weather forecast was rain all weekend but luckily only ended up with damp first sessions each day. Saturday session 3 was perfect, the track had dried up but rain was imminent and...

Thanks, glad to know that was the root cause and nothing to worry about. I tired Bimmerlink but it couldn't clear it. I was under the impression Bimmercode doesn't clear codes but I'll check later today and also try protools.

Does anyone know about CEL code 1E0001? (Idle Control:speed to high) I think this popped after I ran the coolant bleeder service in diagnostic mode. Test drives afterwards have been fine and I'm thinking it has to do with the fact that the service runs the engine to 3500rpm while it idles. I am...

I originally had a different set of MSH studs for about 2 years but I needed longer ones and wanted to change lug size so I've had that exact set you linked for about half a year now, still look to be in good shape and I've tracked it in the rain. I bought these nuts...

Context *WHOOSH* Me

I had a chuckle because I find this ironic. Yes I know your car is wildly different than the way it looks in your PFP but the lighting in your PFP makes it look close to his car color and also that it might have yellow DRL.

Yes same one I have. I swap wheels 2-3 times a month. I did buy aftermarket titanium nuts since my old MSH ones were prone to rusting.

For initial bed in, 10ish medium pressure brakes from 50 to 30 at varying speed reductions. Once they're warm then 5ish hard brakes from 50 to 10 but not activating ABS. Once really hot then extremely hard brake to ABS 3ish times. For track, when on the out lap drag the brake to warm them up...

No issues, they're great and all noise has gone away. I am running on medium stiffness now as I needed to reduce understeer since I'm tracking more often and autocross is less of a priority for me.

Eibach. I think full stiff is just to much on the oem endlink, hence me breaking one like vertex said.

Fwiw I did have clunk from where end link attached until I swapped to SPL endlinks. Performance is great though.