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you'll want to route the lower belt through your lap belt hole on the driver side, otherwise you might submarine in a crash

you don't need to wait for the track to know if it's bedded in properly, just repeat the bedding process and get into adherent mode of friction again to feel it

i'm not a brake expert, but my poor technique seemed to have caused more chunking, leading to poor leading edge self cleaning behavior, and eventually glazing/smear that doesn't come off in a few braking events.

I’ve over 1300 laps/24 hours of track time this season on PMU fronts, no issues. When I first started tracking, poor braking techniques (on/off switch) and lack of proper cool down (on track and during bedding in) caused pad smear /brake shudder.

these will hurt aerodynamic performance vs anything else. i'm going the opposite direction to flatten out this part of the body work.

yearly bump

Brake judder is pretty much always user error https://www.centricparts.com/media/technical_bulletins_docs/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

cutting the side radiator ducting will reduce your cooling efficiency Pull back your fender liner instead, and use compressed air (low pressure) to blow out gunk from behind.

imo the right approach is to maximize tire contact patch through camber and pressure settings, and then use damper/arb tuning to patch balance. chunking the outside like what was posted here just means folks aren't using 80% of the tire they paid for.

-2.6 works pretty well, depending on what the pyrometer indicates. rear has favorable camber curve so you don’t need as much static camber.

your call, generally an inability to accept new views that are researched and tested is what will keep you from being an advanced driver. you can certainly improve your outside shoulder wear just by switching to a faster tire...by scrubbing less at the same speed, when you don't take full...

nope, the red one is a daily. only aero and suspension mods. you can see the front plate as well. keep back tracking?

yup. i've gone through 7 sets of re71rs alone this season. including killing the outside shoulder on a set from testing -3.2 front camber after spring rate change. all 3 cars here are running -4+ front camber. what results back up your views? e

that's not nearly enough camber, fast folks on track run ao52 with -4+ front camber on cars with way more roll stiffness than you guys have. i'm at -4.2 for re71rs and 1100lb front spring, to give you some context.

what's the track alignment that you consider to be "solid"?

if you don't fix your alignment the ao52s might wear through the outside in a single day

Made a b58 keychain

lol indeed. remove the separate head rest, part 14, and bend the arms if you want to

that's how you know it's from poor bed in, after your pad and rotors transition from abrasive friction to adherent.

get a set of race pads like gloc r18 to even out pad deposits while daily driving (cold rotor/pads) if you screwed up the bedding process, then put the preferred pads back on.