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I wonder if ferrari will self detonate again even after break.. perhaps even bigger because they are re-charged? Although it would be hard to top the last bang... :hmm:

Well... there's a seat available in Aston.. wait.. is that Alpine? wait.. wait.. is that his old seat?

I see that you didn't read PDF.. just so you know lights were off both side.

For a moment, i thoight you had same color as mine.

I used to use knee pad meant for volleyball. but since this is not fire resistant, I stopped using it. these days, I just put my foot on dead pedal unless I left foot brake. perhaps you can try something like this. https://store.windingroad.com/sparco-knee-pads

I do have AAA and is my "insurance" plan for track activities which I hope I never have to use it for myself. however, I helped many of my friends. Toyota plan is only for toyota - perhaps only supra? I have other cars that may need assistants on so never looked into it further.

In my opinion, /w wrap would decrease value unless it is exceptionally well done and it is exceptionally looking new. over the time, wrap's color fades much faster than OEM hence it doesn't look as good. I've done this over 2 yrs ago and I am still happy with current look as well as knowing...

just an FYI. my stock rotors lasted 1.5 years, around 20~30 track days. but most wear occurred from using hawk DTC-60 which was great at stopping. I'm currently testing out Zimmermann front rotors and hawk HP+ front and rear. So far so good. and I hear you from instructor perspective...

F1 Animated! The 2022 Season So Far... :D

most likely this is not going to satisfy your inquiry but will try my best. 1. I do not know this. homey don't play that. 2. there are many diversity in this tiny state. for example, if you are eagles fan, go south, if you are jets or giants fan, go north. it is really differentiated by...

I do gravity bleed and not bothering with ABS actuation since I do this like once a year at least. - I mean, not as contaminated. I think ABS actuation is needed if you haven't done it in ages. therefore to completely flush out. but correct me if there's other reason. as for bolts, I do...

good to know. Assuming this is not something loose within the car and only related to brake, other possibility is loose caliper or rotor which is a bit more serious concerning than pads. other steps to diagnose is below. 1. Completely lift car. preferably all 4 wheels or at least 2 wheels...

shim is definitely there from the manufacturer. have you tried to put oem shim on it? assuming oem did not make the noise, oem shim could determine if the pad is right size. that's what I had to do. shim does work as spring.

stating such just confuses op and does not help to solve problem. having said that, adhesive may have used during manufacturing process just to hold brake pads in place but that would not reduce clunking noise. other issues I did not state - because I assumed all was correct - are much bigger...

believe what you want to believe but you do not need adhesive to avoid clunking noise. most of the time, these clunking noise after changing pad only - if it was done properly - is due to pad moving inside caliper because there's too much gap between brake backing and the caliper wall. most of...

OEM pad is never glued. due to heat, it does get stuck together mildly but never glued to pad and caliper.

:dunno: no idea... perhaps you can find it in their site?

heck! this is more sizzling than racing! :lol:

that would be a major defect from manufacturer which this issue doesn't sound like. try shims. it should be a simple fix if it's still available.

The backing plate you referring to might be the shim I'm talking about. had exact issue recently and transplanted shims from stock pad and the noise is gone.