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Just placed my order.. I emailed them back and forth a couple times. They said all hardware is now correct. Comes with #10 stainless screws and washers. Hoping they're black washers...

That looks like a good option... this doesn't say how many threads per inch... the factory ones are 16. I counted and it looks like these are 12 or 13. Not sure how much that matters

Anyone with success on this setup? Is the crossbar high enough to get the camera to eye level? I'm overseas and can't go look at my car. Here's another clamp method with a similar crossbar in a porsche

I was thinking about that... just put the stainless screws through cardboard and spray the heads.

ZL1 got back to me, and the screws they are currently shipping out are stainless #10s. Looks like they've corrected the problem.

Yes, just contact them and tell them yours have rust

FYI it looks like they are now offering stainless screws for the rear. I’m going to email and ask if they are now using #10 screws instead of #8

2014 Yamaha bolt... bought new back in ‘13. Can’t find a picture with car and bike together

My take... sometimes products get delayed, and there is nothing the supplier can do about it. Things happen. BUT - the company needs to apologize, take ownership, and communicate effectively. I'm willing to bet the OP would not be upset if he received an email proactively explaining the...

Haha I like the Stinger and am considering an awd for my daily. You can get them for 5-10k below msrp. My friends will give me endless shit, but it just makes so much sense

I found it interesting that 70% of new GT3 owners went with the manual transmission. https://www.thedrive.com/news/39478/70-of-porsche-911-gt3-buyers-in-the-us-bought-the-manual-transmission

100% agree

So you actually find a longer stand-off is necessary for the bottom screw? Hard to find consistency in people's experiences

I don't know what the stock screws specs are. They supply #8-16 x 1.5" with the kit. A lot of people said they needed to purchase #10-16 x 1.5" to fit properly. Some replace this with a stainless hex, instead of the supplied phillips to match OEM and make it easier to access with rear wheel on...

I do agree that the company should be able to figure out the hardware... seems like some people get hardware that fits fine, others don't. When I get my set I'll be purchasing additional hardware at the same time as recommended on this forum. Shouldn't have to, but oh well. I'd rather not have...

Those using 5w-30 - would you drain and replace with 0w20 if you had a warranty issue? Would Toyota be able to tell? I’ve heard some buying the 0w20 oil and keeping it (or returning it) so they have the receipt to show Toyota. I know that doesn’t sound honest, but Toyota refusing a warranty...

You were able to do the rear without removing the wheel with this tool?

So I'm about to buy these guards. From these posts I'm gathering I need to: 1. Get six #10-16 x 1.5" screws. Can get the Black Oxide Philips Head or the stainless hex linked by supradupra above. Only thing here, they don't offer that stainless screw in a 1.5" on the amazon link 2. Get shorter...

I tend to agree with this.. just find a pre June 2020 ECU date and a car that doesn’t have the oil consumption issue if buying used. There are tips in the oil consumption thread on how to drive it that may (or may not) decrease your likelihood of having the oil consumption issue if you buy new.

Another thing to think about: did the owner who only put 100 miles on it first spend $2-3k on ceramic coating and PPF? That’s a huge cost most people spend right after purchasing a new car. Also, sounds like you are more than willing to walk away, so that puts you in a powerful negotiation...