It is, indeed.
It's still unusual. But if it's a totally random freak thing then it's not too big a deal.
You do have to start to question the dealership, switching from one to the other. Although to be fair it's unknown precisely what they told you and what they'd checked so far.
Do you recall the offset? And, are you using spacers anywhere?
I put 255 square on the Z4 for winter, but had to have some spacers in the front because the wheels (+35mm) spokes didn't clear the calipers. Interested in what others have done, 275 all around would be sweet.
Powered sub, or not powered? If not powered, it's possible that it's causing the amp to pull too much power, and that blows the fuse?
If powered, it might be more likely that somehow the sub is not grounded properly, and it's using the signal cable from the amp as a ground, and that's what's...
Is it the standard Audiotec-Fischer Helix interface? Was there at least a beginning tune on it to start out with, mapping the channels and such? It's an incredibly powerful interface, I keep watching videos on it so I can have some idea where to start some day when I finally do this (am upgrade)...
There's a thread around here dedicated to it. The short version is:
* Toyota says 56Nm
* BMW says 56Nm + 90 degrees and that you are to replace the bolt
When I removed mine I stepped up the torque wrench until they removed without it clicking. I know this is NOT the way to tell what something...
Yes and no. You said you checked pressure. I wondered about actually comparing a log, the full run charted out along with a "known good" car doing the same check process.
If the normal error here is to have the check stop, but for you it jumps to the end and says it's fine, playing devil's...
Are you under warranty? If not maybe get an extended warranty. Wait a few months, Then notice the issue again, and ask for it to be looked at. Let them follow the procedures about what it is or isn't and eventually get in there themselves if that's the actual problem.
I've read the issue is...
Maybe a trip to the dealer. Which might be across town or even further for some.
A kit purchased online is a simple matter of convenience and sometimes reduced cost. Not sure where you're trying to go here, a debate how it's no good, for anyone, ever? Your method is the perfect method for...
Package discount, usually. Saves a few bucks on all the stuff you were going to buy separately. Not always reality, but that's the idea. Convenience as well, save a trip to Wal Mart for cheaper oil if you don't occasionally go for other stuff.
FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, and sometimes Bimmerworld are my go-to's. All are good and worth price comparing. Depending on the item(s) any one of them can be lower than the others.
That would be lean. Also an injector. Depends on the injector issue.
Don't disregard the injector possibility just because one of the ways it shows up isn't present. Many issues show up in different ways.
You probably don't have it set up correctly. Needs a tube going down inside to get the brake fluid out. And to be clear it is filled with fluid, right? Because... maybe it's too opaque to see inside of but I don't see a line showing the fluid level.
There's a CDV thread, if you search for it you'll find some folks have had this and what they did about it. Actually here it is: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/diy-clutch-delay-valve-cdv-removal.18268/page-14#post-444244
You might look and be 100% sure the reservoir is full enough, just in...