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Crackles are a different story, that is not really related to the startup roar or the exhaust valves. They are controlling the crackles via the engine's fuel/ignition map and a lot of that is intentional, for sound effects.

The way BMW programs it on M-sport/M models is that the valves are fully open on startup and you get the full loud roar. Sounds cool, but can be inappropriate at times, so I have mixed opinions about this. After the start, then they close one of the valves to help the engine warm up faster...

That is the coolest thing ever! And you have some nice swag and documentation that gives the car some provenance.

Normally you really end up eating it with a car this new, but you're going to be facing a serious uphill climb to recover $25-30K over MSRP on what is now a titled used car. For that amount of loss, you should consider getting custom seats installed or see if someone can modify the stock seat...

Good, that's the way to go and should be reliable.

45 pages worth! Hilarious.

I think a problem you're going to have is that the DIY sticker sites may not let you make an angled sticker that goes with the GR logo and it's raked (italic) font. Tough to make the GR logo fit in gracefully when it has to be made on a rectangular die.

Usually under 3% should be OK.

Out of curiosity, I googled "bmw chassis function limited" and everything pointed to an issue with the adaptive suspension, either the wiring or a sensor. Was any of that stuff disconnected/reconnected during installation of your springs? I wonder if one of the connectors wasn't plugged back...

I feel like a tire diameter mismatch would trigger ABS/VSC/TPMS errors (or limit driving dynamics) more than throwing a chassis error. Do you have a way to read the specific error code? That would narrow it down considerably. Run the math on the diameter differences from stock and between...

I occasionally hear that in my M2 Comp (6MT) when doing an awkward downshift in stop-and-go city traffic and auto rev match gets in the way. I didn't notice anything when I drove the Supra. I suspect the automatic transmission molasses would mask any of that even if it were present, and I know...

So the TPMS message is usually related to the iDrive display where it shows you the recommended pressure next to the actual pressure. To do this it has to know what tire setup is on the car, and it usually gives stock options, as well as an option to "train" the system to a reference cold...

Keep up the good work man! I enjoy your videos.

How about a photo of the messages? This is surely something we've dealt with on the BMW side before.

Thanks for the video Jackie, and good to have you on board. I remember when I saw some of the early review videos and looked under the hood, it was obvious those vents weren't going to be remotely useful, plus you'd have to hack up the hood panel bracing to even get through the other side...

You can experience that powertrain in several BMW models right now. In my opinion it will be a minor upgrade for the Supra. All the B58 variants are vastly underrated, so when BMW releases power bumps they tend to feel like less of a power bump than the paper specs would imply.

No, I never said anything remotely like that. I don't think the MT in the M2C is anything special or unique to the M line. It's a ZF unit, one of the S6 variants I believe, and other manufacturers use S6 MTs as well. Toyota should have access to this like any other manufacturer.

Yeah, that guy didn't know what he was talking about, there is not supposed to be grease inside that section. The only grease that would be visible is what's used to lube the o-ring seal on the case. One rack had the grease cleaned up, the other didn't. It's not the epic failure the guy is...

See, I don't agree with that. The manual in the 86, which is a Toyota unit derived from Aisin, isn't any better than the manual in the M2 Competition. I don't know whether they have the option to use the M2C's 6MT box for the Supra, but it's at least as good as what Toyota is giving us in the...

The other problem with those warranties is buying them up front. That is a chunk of money that you won't even get a benefit from for many years/miles, until after the factory warranty expires (so if you're convinced you need it, then wait to buy it later). You'd be better off putting that...